Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Valkyries…

Many businesses had rent-a-security guards sitting out front. The look tough dressed in
their dark uniforms but tasks seem for to assisting the elites park their cars on
the jammed sidewalks. Easy to tell a tourist restaurant from one where the locals
eat, just look for the trash on the ground in the dining area as a sign the Kmers
eat there. The more crumpled white paper napkins tossed on the ground, the
higher the percentage of locals. The wait staff who are Khmer seem to smile
more, the Vietnamese come with more attitude.

Dr. Ly picked us up in 2 vehicles with operators, and commented he lives
nearby our hotel. I tipped the driver $2US (for my 2 bags). I took great pleasure in
helping assist pack the mini van as sitting for so long on the journey over was a
pain. Also had assistance carrying the bags upstairs and a well deserved tip
resulted for the multiple steep and narrow flights. The hotel was different than
what we were told and was just a building east of the other location. No free
breakfast and nobody will now know where we are
Using US dollars for food and drink. Draught Beer is around 75 cents at
happy hour. For dinner yesterday I had Amok-style fish – yellow curry coconut Thai
basil sauce on steamed river fish with white rice. Seemed money was
disappearing on the 30 hour journey to get here. LAX was a hassle, a human zoo
with untrained keepers, a drag for 4 hours. We slept well on the flights over . I am
in a writing mood today. I handed out Dr. Dunn’s business cards to Javier and
Tanya and I am only one that has personal business cards. Met a college student
Mark on the Taipei -Phnom Penh flight and gave him one of Dr. Dunn’s cards. He
has Khmer relatives and is here with Global Youth Connection (GYC) investigating
Khmer Rouge shenanigans – it’s his first visit too. I requested if he could send Dr.
Dunn information about the program he is involved in.

Tanya talks of visiting Singapore and Thailand, Javier of hitting Japan, and I
of nothing in particular. Going to the Russian restaurant Irina this morning on my
walk. Need to start getting the GPS in order. Have a weak wireless Internet signal
in my room, should have built a long range antenna before coming here. Javier
had connected to it once for a few minutes. The coffee search is on for that
morning moment of relaxing pleasure in the land of Amok…

7:00PM Voltage…
Voltage was 197 AC (7PM), and previously s 207v during the early
afternoon. Need to focus, feel out of place, nothing like I expected- reminds me of
Tampico or Vera Cruz, Mexico. Not sure where everyone is right now- most likely
in their rooms getting oriented. Need to stay up a few more hours- just completed
a few hour rest after a shower. The bars issued by the hotel are extremely small,
about the size of a pack of matches. Very glad I brought my own soap. Bottled
water is the next order of the day…
Sunday 17th June 2007 6:30PM Tuk-tuk, walk-walk…
It’s 8PM- my comrades are pooped. Seems I have come out on top in the
jet-lag rebound. I will write more in the morning. ..
Tuesday 19 June 2007 Jet Lag? Time clock just off by 12 hours…

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Not getting the names of all the restaurants as we walk by, I read and
instantly forget. I have a strange diet – curried fish with rice and some fruit for
lunch and one beer, dinner equals Happy Hour (2 beers) , breakfast consists of
coffee w/ sugar, eating only 1 meal a day is keeping me content. Yesterday Javier
and I had foot massages after strolling down towards the Russian Embassy (via 51
Southbound) and then up Norodum Boulevard to the market east of our hotel. Did
not find the Russian Restaurant Irina (house numbers do not always go in order)
but came across furniture row (manufacturing wicker and wood pieces).
Development abounds next to slums on Norodum Boulevard just south of
Independence Monument. Swung through the market there and it was the real
Cambodia- people chopping fish and meats in super unsanitary conditions, and
the bits were flying everywhere- it easy to get sprayed with juices. Just about
everything for sale. Golden camera opportunities but out of natural respect did
not photograph people in their daily routines. I will ask if its OK today when such
opportunities arise. My favorite dish is Amok fish with Rice. It is the only thing I
have eaten- absolutely no appetite due to the heat.
Going into a low ceiling tarp covered, extremely humid and hot local
markets on an empty stomach makes one a bit nauseous from the stench but
definitely keeps the feet moving. The smell here is
unforgettable.

Every trash can is filled and rubbish, is bagged, and set out on the curb. I
have yet to see any pickup by municipal services. This becomes the dining area
for the destitute. Great variety of facial features amongst the populace. Country
folks have tradition dress and seem to be doing stereotypical Southeast Asian

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

occupations. Some begging but less than expected. Standing still in a market
makes you an easily approachable target for the hungry. Our afternoon Happy
Hour lasted till 8ish PM. Everyone left me at the corner café. I did not want to go
to the room because I know I needed to stay up. I lasted till 8:30PM as a loud
female German tourist next to my table on her “handy” (German slang for
cellphone) was enough to chase me out of my chair. Going to bed around 9PM ,I
awoke at 2AM and continued to work on my laptop cleaning files, backing up, and
reviewing information and maps. Have had absolutely no contact with anyone
here from any organization (Cambodian or Americanski). Still no wireless access
to Internet, across the street the vintage computers at the Internet café take 1/2
hour to read and reply to about two messages. For 50 cents an hour I can’t
complain (but sure would like to). Tanya and Javier have better luck using their
respective service providers, Juno seems to functions poorly trying to connect
from Asia,
Monday was a holiday, Javier and I walked up to the Central Market (dubbed
the Stink Pit). High prices and pesky sales folks. Large variety and I was in the
mood to buy. People too pushy and I was unable to make clear decisions. Wanted
to buy in quantity but they preferred an instant sale of one item rather than
discussing prices. I said I would browse and come back to by a dozen or two of an
item later if I did not find a better price. They said no discount on quantity later
and I could just buy one now for discount. Everyone seems have a different view
on the dollars on my pocket. Moto and tuk-tuk drivers out front of our hotel are
OK- sometimes fun other times obnoxious. Their cries of “tuk-tuk“ are answered
by my “walk-walk”. Usually I responded with a “nyet spasiba” and Javier is picking
a bit of Russian too. I can barely understand their English, the quite demeanor
and accents are impossible to comprehend. When they ask my name, they
respond with “Amfunny” instead of Anthony, I keep insisting on correct
pronunciation until they are successful. The shoeshine kids seem frustrated by all
the sandals that foreigners wear. The white people here are terribly unsociable
and don’t look at you ,and in general ignore hellos and politeness. I watch them
struggle with the difference in culture here. STOP

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

A bloke (actually Frenchman) was screaming at the police as I walked down
Street 278 looking for a SIM card to purchase yesterday afternoon. He was sitting
on a scooter demanding the police arrest a local that cut him with a knife. He was
furious that the cops would do nothing, his yelling escalated and language
became extremely vulgar. It seems from what I heard their was an incident and in
the struggle he beat the man with the knife off with a large stick. I have no idea
who started the altercation, when it happened, nor the circumstances- alcohol,
drugs, or machismo. He did lift his shirt and displayed a good 10 inch gash with at
least 2 dozen stitches on his left midsection just below his ribs. The cops just
stared whilst he ranted and raved. There was one plainclothes officer with a radio
and one in uniform, both armed with semiautomatic 9mm pistols. He just drove
off on his scooter frustrated and the cops walked away. A crowd had developed
and I just kept walking to a safe distance and listened in. After that when I went
out, my pepper spray slipped into my pocket. My tiny pocket knife would be
useless against an attacker that wielded the blade which slashed this individual .It
seems in retrospect there was more to the story than he was screaming in words
to the stunned-deer in the headlight looking policemen. I feel that when
something happens here, it is quick and I better respond fast or be a victim.
Enough on that.
Two days ago I saw a scooter with 3 locals bottom out the suspension on
Sihanouk Boulevard, shoot out sparks , wobble out of control (somehow avoiding
the dozens of other vehicles) and head straight at us as we were walking on the
sidewalk against traffic. The 5 inch high curb and parked car a few, meters down
the road spelled disaster. The 3 people flipped around and all moved in different
directions as the scooter wobbled wildly out of control for about 20 feet going
about 15MPH. At the very last moment, only a foot from the curb the operator
gained control veered left around the park car and they went on their merry way
into the night. Hundreds of scooters drive around endlessly with cars and a few
trucks leading the way. I can deduce that they drive around just to take their
minds of life here and the cooling breeze at 10plus MPH is the only relief they can
sustain against the heat. Electricity, I have been told, is very expensive here.

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

My cell phone sim card was obtained quickly, $15 (2 more than the locals)
but I asked for service an received it. They checked it out added ten dollars worth
of talk time. One man at first refused the sale without proper government
approved documentation and ID the owner seeing a chance for a 2 dollar profit
pulled out a previously used SIM card (CAMSHIN service). There were text
messages on the SIM card an English speaking ex pat had it and sold it back or it
was nicked- all part of whirlpool here… They loaded the credit, the one salesman
said 1 cent per minute and the owner told me 8 to 10 depending on which
network I called. I felt good to have a communication device but instantly I
realized no one would call and who could I talk to… I did call Kevin who has a 23
area code, mine is 11, we chatted for for maybe 15 minutes at a cost of about
$2.90. Know I understand text messaging, the cost savings, but I hate typing on a
touch pad. I thought of getting blue tooth or attachable keyboard but alas time
and money seem to come at a student from both sides at once while packing for
a long trip.
My room A/C puts out 50°F air and room temperature is around 80°F. I have
2 outside walls. You don’t see thermometers or clocks in public- everyone knows
it’s hot and extremely humid. Time moves at a special rate here- an endless ant
farm- like a churning river that is either on or off- no peaks, no valleys, on or off.
Glad you asked, my room is on the backside of the
hotel 12’x13″, 6’x3′ entry, 8’x4′ bathroom/shower. It is
like a Mediterranean hotel room. The bathroom is the
shower. Their is hot water- initially a plus, but who would
ever use it- the cold water
is a natural gift of the
earth and a great relief from the heat. Tanya and
Aleksey’s room is in the front with the balcony and
a larger A/C unit and a chilly room. Javier’s room is
in the middle, window but no view (another
concrete wall a foot away) and good A/C. I have a

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

view of a corrugated tin rooftop and plenty of metal re-bar.
The ceiling fans rotate and are high speed but I would prefer a slower
breeze that was direct. The rooms have thick walls, tile floors and no insulation
around the door, windows, or A/C wall unit. I few pennies spent on strips of
insulating foam would make a huge difference- I may look for some but where.
After 3 days I have seen everything and nothing here- keeping the list of 2 or 3
things I want to do in reserve. No aspiration to go to Siem Reap though everyone
says go- everyone. Just not a crowd follower and have seen enough of this world.
Really hoping to do something productive and hopefully the meeting today will be
fruitful. The shuttling around and tourist activities experienced by the previous
entourage of TX State professors seems completely opposite from our reality. Not
anything bad- we are just floating in the Khmer world.
Spoke to another Kiwi, Cullen, who is a civil engineer developing roads and
bridges in the rural areas. I talked to him about contacting TX State through Dr.
Dunn and seeing our website to see if we could work together in the future
somehow. There is a meeting at the University of Health Sciences (UHS)
tomorrow- we are being picked up at 8:30AM.

Wednesday 20st June – Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Drop dead, Listerine®, Boomerang, much Weiser, much whiter
In order to stay awake (especially through our late afternoon ), good
company and conversation is necessary. We all went to Near and Far, the
restaurant that my friend Kevin knows the owner well, for our daily
review/refreshment. It seems when I went there before the “Cham” we met was a
different one and not the real owner. I had asked for Cham and I was duped by
the typical Asian response to a conversation of “yes, yes, yes..” Seems saying
“yes” means, “yes” I heard and understood the question, not really answering
“yes”. Originally we looked for an Irish Pub a few doors down- no luck.
Apprehensively we went to Near and Far, since the other Cham was strange when
we talked about Kevin. Her name is Ahda, the cook, and previously said she was
Cambodia 2007 8
Cham, her English comprehension was off that day or was being polite by her
cultural standards. Well it all worked out- sat down to some beers and a tray of
potatoes (fried type) arrived compliments of the house. First real sense of
customer service in a week. Then it happened, text messages like a hail of
bullets- Kevin was flying in from Siem Reap. We some how managed to remain
awake past 8PM- the usual yawn hour. Kevin said he would be there at 10pm but
was a early. We all agreed to go out to with Kevin. When the time came, my
comrades bailed, so Cham, Kevin, 3 employees, and I motoed to a disco. Cham
had argued with the tuk-tuk drivers over the price so instead we motoed it. Traffic
was minimal (@11PM) so it was easy getting there. Kevin and I were patted down
for guns and in we went , The 2 Near and Far employees like to go there for pizza,
Kevin treats them and says he is their walking ATM machine. I really liked the
music the DJ spun and the Khmer songs were incredible.

Thursday 21rd June – Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Sleeping…
Awoke at noon, coffee and wondering… my friend Kevin is getting his motorcycle
worked on, he hates the French mechanic he uses but he says he’s the best of the
worst (charges $10SUS/hr., US rates are 6 to 7 times that). I probably will be
getting hungry soon. Talking to local ex pats- seems this place kills a lot of mid-
40s white males that spend too much time here. They just get ill and drop dead-
sometimes with a beer in their hands standing at a bar. All the meetings
yesterday went smooth. The RUPP library was fun (no A/C and birds flying around
inside), University of Health Sciences (UHS) with Dr Ly, and then out to Don Bosco
Technical School but missed seeing Father Leo the director. I think UHS will be
great, RUPP a toss up, and Don Bosco Technical School. It located so far out I
could not get to and from at a reasonable cost. Used the GPS to track the route.
Hopefully off to the American, French, and Russian Cultural Centers soon to see
how they present themselves to the Cambodians.
7:15PM
Papa Hanoi, No-You Monkey, fm, Hungry, Twist…

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Around 3 or 4 PM we went to the east side of Lake Boeng Kak, the backpackers’
den. We all had a beer on a dock bar and then to a roof top restaurant. On the 5th
floor restaurant we ate (I nibbled) and 2 Cameroonians with a French chick
demanded to watch the movie “Killing fields”. I was a bit unnerved. The French
Chick cried and my comrades stared at the screen. I kept my back to the screen…
An early trip to Lucky Market for essentials, water, coffee, snack or 2.
Shelves are stocked and stores over staffed. Aleksey had no luck at the National
Museum looking for work or volunteer action, Javier still talks of Japan but may
have trouble getting a ticket on line, Tanya has the busiest schedule teaching
classes the entire time we are here. Javier and I will teach mornings Monday
through Friday in July. OK time to read the Cambodian Daily (1,200reil) and sweat
in the lobby waiting for our ride to the UHS.

Saturday 23rd June – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
7:00AM
Near and Far, UHS, A World w/o Discipline, Ring around America
Up at 6:00AM and out for a walk. One kilometer and already about ready to
crawl back in bed. Very humid, street sweepers abound, many shops open but not
stores. I went to Lucky Market for a ATM raid and groceries- over 15 US dollar
purchase allows use of a credit card. I can’t imagine what the experience of using
my card will be, (fingerprinting, blood sample, or 12 forms of ID). Had a very
difficult time with a worn 5 dollar bill with a 3 mm tear. They acted like it was
counterfeit. So I loaned to a French musician down on his luck down at the Near
and Far. The owner Cham who came here from Vietnam 20 years ago is the one
who has answers and is always available. Don Bosco Technical School is a good
haul and spoke to her about renting a car for the day to get out there- she said a
tuk-tuk would suffice. I can’t imagine going out
there everyday from here AND teaching at RUPP.
Construction sites are a hoot, more like a war zone
after a battle. Running wires from utility poles to
building involves a man on an aluminum ladder in
the street during rush hour. Two men hold the

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

bottom and they slide the ladder with the man atop tying the cabling in (using
cloth rags as ties downs). Unbelievable. Funny how they just keep laying wires
upon wires- one day the poles will snap from the weight. I can only guess if a
cable failed it would be unrepairable in the mess and another laid in its place.
The UHS English classes taught by Tanya are strange- barely 50%
attendance and the students are all over the road in English proficiency- double
yikes. My ceiling fan went out but it is still tolerable. Most of the fans rotate and it
drives me nuts, no breeze then bi breeze (like a Chinese water torture)- I may buy
a nice quiet fan. What else- ate street food- small steamed snails and a green
coconut. Bopped up to UHS twice yesterday but after the 1st ride the UHS drive
was a no show… hilarious. If he loves all of it why doesn’t he stay? Learning some
Khmer. Javier and I went to Freebird Café. OK place but they initially refused
another one of my worn $5 bills, so tipping was impossible without change. My
laptop acted a bit strange but it is fixed now. Huffing down to a Internet café ‘
with a laptop was not pleasant in the heat and humidity, no faster than the
horrible Internet café s across the street. My Juno Web mail site crashes Microsoft
Explorer on XP computers at UHS.
Many ex pats agree that my observations about Khmer society are on the
right track. When I teach my English class, a little discipline will probably cause a
riot- I can’t even imagine the looks are their faces when I request cell phones be
turned off. Sad that Kevin left for Seam Reap- it was good to have a conversation
on the same level for a change. We are pretty much on our own here, I hope I can
find contacts for future programs as the organizational skills here are something
that seems to be lacking. Other that the stench and poverty, the mess that is
Phnom Penh rolls on. Every morning I walk up to the same newsstand and buy the
same newspaper. The woman looks at me like she has never seen me before nor
can remember what I purchased. I may change my daily routine (like I have one)
to morning exploration followed by afternoon reading, well at least until July.
Javier and I have received our books for teaching but no syllabus or regulations.

Monday 25th JUNE – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
7:00AM
Bye-bye, Drive you crazy, Boomerang
What changes, Saturday night along the riverwalk around dusk, prayed to
Buddha, blessed and cleansed with water in a mini-temple and released caged
birds bought from a vendor. The birds landed on the ground and the gentleman
who sold them to me grabbed them and tossed them up on Buddha’s mini-temple
to insure their freedom. I was told they just grab them and throw them back in
the cage, it was a refreshing sight. My breakfast was street food- rice, mystery
meat, mud fish (from the Mekong River), and bits of life tossed in. Still eating
snails, tried a Khmer ice cream/pudding concoction, but held off eating boiled
duck embryo eggs where the chick was well developed. When the cooked egg is
cracked open you can see the chick, though featherless, looked like a horror
movie scene. The locals eat the yolk by using a small spoon and discard the
embryonic carcass. I tossed the limp body to a hungry cat. Had another foot
massage just because the price is so so low ($7). Javier had fun talking to a 5 year
old street vendor. He bartered in English and knew a few languages. After a few
minutes bartering over a book, Javier told the kid that he had purchased it last
week. The child looked at him and said. “Then why did you even ask me about it!”
His tone and mastery of English was excellent- we were indeed stunned. Had a
fabulous time along the Mekong/Tonle Sap and really felt like I was experiencing
this place.
Tourists don’t seem friendly but ex pats are. Met an Australian named Paul
(Pawel), born in Poland and grew up in Australia, who is here to clear land mines.
His field of study is cartography and ecology and his English is well accented like
an Ozzie. Seems to like to hang out in bars having cocktails. I joined him for a
beer and good soulful and intellectual discussions, sure beats talking to the numb
locals who say “yes yes”, “same same”, or “up to you”. He marveled at the fact
after we spoke for one hour, he had not heard me say one swear word.
Not one person (Cambodian) here has heard of Texas and it makes their
head twist in confusion trying to think where it is. Every 10 minutes I have ideas
for improving things here the locals could do to make life better for the tourists

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

and attract more business for them but … The tuk-tuk and moto drivers sit
around all day instead of reading or learning languages, they do however LOVE to
play cards They hassle you for a ride then when you jump in they can barely find
where you need to go. They do all know where the gambling joints are located,
the infamous CamboSix betting shops. We tried to get to the train station and
that was tough for the driver, yes the one and only train station next to the
largest market in the center of town was not etched in the mind of a tuk-tuk
driver.

TUESDAY 26 JUNE – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
8:00AM
Onsamlan, Same same you
Up again at 4:00AM , lasted an hour then napped for an hour. Morning
routine and trying to motivate to type. OK here’s goes. Went to RUPP yesterday to
meet Sr. Luise, ask questions, and hang out. Many things to plan for the upcoming
class. It may be rough at first for myself and the students. The book seems
difficult and I was told Cambodian students don’t like to do homework. I asked
about policies and such, no real reply. Need to get a few supplies today. The
classrooms for Javier and I are in Bldg. C and seem barren. Looks like making a
syllabus for the 1st day may be tough until I can READ the class. We’ll do the
introduction routine as demonstrated by Tanya last week. All the English teachers
are pleasant, many from ex-British colonies and here for the summer session.
Have been handing out Dr. Dunn’s cards when I see a need, I just wish I had
better Internet access to let him know quickly before emails roll in unexpectedly
into his mailbox. Obtaining telephone numbers of English speaking tuk-tuk drivers
and learning life’s lessons.
Transport seems to take a big bite out of our per diem. Eating in the room is
OK but not healthy enough for the amount of walking being done. We have a few
utensils, a plate, cups, 2 bowls, and a hot water kettle, plus the mini-fridge that
doubles as a TV stand. Everyone gets things done early then mellows out. I have
a hard time sleeping late and at 8:00PM it feels like it is midnight. I have been
forcing myself to stay up to 10PMish. Coffee justs makes you sweat and doesn’t

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

have the kick like back home. Spent time with Sumana and she is much more
open here in Phnom Penh but still not forth coming with information. Learned
today that tuk-tuk drivers can’t read a map, using temple names as a destination
is the way to get around. I gave Javier and Tanya cards with the local temple
name written down “WAT LANGKA”, which is a half block away from our hotel.
Well I guess I will stay here and build contacts and hopefully grow as an
individual. The RUPP library archives will be fun to explore- they have a small
collection in 3 languages- English, French, and Khmer. The library staff were very
appreciative of the books brought and donated by TX State. The asked for a
business card of the person responsible for the donation and gave them one of Dr.
Dunn’s cards. Today is another day of things to do and the list grows. Television
gives a strange impression of the US. News in English mostly Asian topics. Asian
TV is a bit violent and many shows based on cultural mythology and beliefs.

WEDNESDAY 27 JUNE – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
4:40AM
Rudolph the red Nose Reindeer, Mellow Yellow and in the Red

Tried typing but forced myself back asleep. Awoke again at 7:00AM, called
Javier and by 8:15AM we were off via Sothea’s tuk-tuk to the Russian Market.
Bought 4 turn signals for my Japanese motorcycle- for US$3, back home was
about US$60 for the same. OK Javier and I are off to RUPP so they can adjust to us
and we can interact with the staff and students. So what happened yesterday…
up at 4:00AM , no nap, went to Cham’s near and Far Restaurant the whole day
and studied. Planned my 1st lesson and tutored English to her employees. Khmer
is tough, the placement of the tongue is so different and difficult to do (not to
mention a 77 letter alphabet). Funny thoughts… saw a Tennessee license plate on
a car, Javier had a Phnom Penh license plate made. 3 government officials came
by Cham’s place and I thought it was some kind of inspection (monthly payoff),
they were just lost. They were very, very friendly, said hello and bye to me in
English and I spoke Khmer back that created smiles.
Not nervous about teaching, I hope the students are into it and outgoing,
something not characteristic of the Khmer people. Did write 12 postcards but I
Cambodia 2007 14
have to go almost 2 miles to the post office up by the American Embassy. Mail is
not delivered here, rather you go to the post office to pick it up. All the UN
vehicles have blue plates , the NGOs are green, both with white letters. The
various organizational branches driving around looks like the the list of databases
available from Alkek website. The dollarization is strange as the money is wearing
out rapidly here. All bills in the states would be destroyed by the US Treasury,
here they just keep wearing them thinner and thinner. A small tear in a bill
invalidates it to the locals, a real small tear…. Had a litchi mint shake for a buck
fifty. The fruit costs 1 dollar a kilo in Cambodia, 30 cents a kilo in Vietnam.

FRIDAY 29 JUNE 9:10AM – Phnom Penh Diary 2007

No Burrshi, Water- Only Water, Let’s Go!
Survived the journey out to Don Bosco, a bit too far. Rough dirt road, much
construction activity, and extremely risk averse truck drivers. Best English
speaking tuk-tuk driver on our street went to the wrong one (the girls’ academy),
though I had insisted before hand the technical school for boys. When I pulled out
my GPS to show the direction, you think the world had ended and in my hands for
a ray gun…. oh the locals were so surprised to see the device. Speaking of, not
seeing drugs openly, but the effects are everywhere. Seems stained teeth is a
characteristic of yamaa (crystal meth smokers) users, as they don’t seem to
brush their teeth, nor eat and they are skinny.
Don Bosco- getting back to things is the most organized clean and
happening place in this entire country. Well worth charitable efforts. 50 percent of
their 2 year school graduates have a job placement 6 months before graduating.
We are still pretty much on our own here. English language skills are truly
needed in development, critical thinking and knowledge of the outside world’s
ways- hygiene, sanitation, computer skills, medical treatment, etc.
Everyone must use the same English language book here. All the
conversations continue on the same path. As you answer questions, they don’t
seem to analyze it and do not adjust further questions to keep the conversation
going. I did notice they will speak more openly after about 5 minutes of being
around you. The room can be silent for 5 minutes and then changes as they
adapt to my presence. Did I mention I saw the street kid who’s hooked on some
narcotic sleeping on the sidewalk, well it turns out he is a glue sniffer. The buy a
small metal can (about 8 ounces) and place the glue in a plastic bag). Two days
before he was swinging a 4 foot metal chain at me as I scooted him out of Cham’s
place.
This may be an odd place but maybe the USA is an anomaly in the world.
Today will be relaxing, studying Khmer, and tutoring English. I can not wait until
RUPP starts. I must mention the ride to Don Bosco Tech School was $8 but I gave
him $11 and a liter of water. It was a rough journey down bad bumpy roads and
he waited a long time for me while I visited. The big trucks on the roads created
very dusty and dangerous conditions. Signing out.

SATURDAY 30 JUNE 8:30PM – Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Medicine, Why you come here? Moto All Day
Must have taken 8 moto rides today. Spent some time in
the “ghetto” taking medicine to a sick baby for a friend (cost
$2.50). Got caught in a major thunderstorm right outside the
shanty town which is on stilts above the lake(next to back
packer haven) and talked to 3 local marijuana dealers while
waiting out the downpour. They could not believe I was happy
without getting high on pot. They asked a bit about America
but mostly talked about life in Cambodia and people earning
and trying to live on one dollar a day. I tried to tell them I was not rich but they
could not comprehend it. They sell pot and drive moto taxis, two careers they
said, and were proud they could feed their families. They dealt drugs less than
100 meters from a police station. Stopped by the Russian Cultural Center and it
was closed. Things are so turned around here, one would think weekends or at
least Saturdays would be a prime tourist days. The center’s director is out of the
country so all events have stopped,I was looking forward to interaction with some
Russian folk.
I have seen so very much of the underbelly of Phnom Penh, maybe too

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

much and I am feeling lost in this place. Still no real contact with anyone on this
side…
Spent time in the market east of the Central Market . It is one of the
Vietnamese sectors and I witnessed 6 Vietnamese karaoke videos being loaded
into a Motorola Razor mobile phone illegally, the cost $1.25. Had an iced coffee
inside the market and so far no ill effects from the ice. Had lunch at the Near and
Far, correction had lunch out in backpacker haven near the lakeside ghetto. Off to
see Cham and her employees as it is the cook’s birthday today. It is very exciting
for them to go out after work (they close at 10:00PM). They get a free tuk-tuk or
moto ride, get to dance and drink coca colas, or a Bailey’s on the rocks. They are
in their lower 20’s and one is 30 but they act like giggly teenagers. For a mere
$12USD, I can take them out and see places most tourists could never find.
Really not much to see and do here as compared to
other parts of the westernized world. The place is
exhausting. Saw many monkeys today up at Wat Phnom
and in the surrounding areas traveling around town
along the power and utility lines. I would hate to leave a
window open and have a hungry monkey in the kitchen
late one night. Still no method to all of this, it is like behind inside an anthill and
trying to get someone’s attention, not going to happen, they just keep on with the
task at hand. Here, there seems to be no tomorrow, only that which is in front of
you. Entering the backpacker haven/drug den/ghetto, their is a mosque and many
women wearing scarves over their heads, they are referred to as Cham Muslims,
the largest minority group in Cambodia. Well I have seen everything worth seeing
from a tourist point of view and only have the cultural centers to stop in to
(French, American, and Russian). All the NGOs seem to be locked up like Fort
Knox, except the World Bank Building- no guard, gate open, and a old tire leaning
against the fence. Hilarious in this nest of insanity. Javier is still in Vietnam, Tanya
and Aleksey at the beach.
Have been seeing a few tempers edging towards flaring here and there, yet

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

no real displays of anger. There are banks but no locals lined up making deposits,
everyone’s future is lining their pockets. Saving money does not seem prevalent
only the velocity of cash seems to matter. If you keep busy enough making a few
dollars everyday you won’t see the mess your in. I am amazed at the amount of
cash people will have in their pockets. Life is like driving a moto in traffic, each
small move is executed rapidly one after another with out looking down the road-
take you eye off the vehicles in front or beside you and your dead. Much
primitive construction and the families seem to live on site- the entire family. In
the wooded areas around town there are some squatter settlements. Went to a
few bookstores- they were not packed on a Saturday and almost all the books
were used. Any new books are surely copied locally and illegally. Seeing more
beggars and handicapped folks. OK time to go….

Sunday June 30TH – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:45PM
Future, Sell my bar- you buy, only $10,000US- you buy? School daze
Spent today hanging out at Near and Far teaching English. Today was learn
about having a business in Phnom Penh Day. Spoke to Ted, a French ex pat, with a
Vietnamese wife named China. She is pregnant and he has a software company
here. He says it was impossible to open a business in France and here small
capital does wonders. He hires locals and finds good workers at fair wages. Pays
off police, and government officials about every 3 months at 35 dollars a pop. He
says it is easier than 3 days of paperwork and accepts the practice. I said as an
American I would fear escalation of the “fees” but he says it is not extortion but
just a way of smoothing things out. His company is based in Caribbean for tax
purposes and owns 100% of his business, including the land. He told me a
foreigner can easily open a business here.
Went shopping for a business location today just to see what spaces rented
for. Prices varied in the various city markets. Store front (sidewalk business with
an extended roof) between $200US to $400US up front then 20 to 40 US dollars a
month after that. An inside store stall doubled the prices. Cham’s is selling her
restaurant for 10 grand includes her 750 dollar deposit. It buys everything. Her

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

rent is $400US, electricity $50-$70, H2O $15, gas $28, $280 for wages amongst
4 employees all per month. She really wants the upstairs location, more room
higher rent $650/month. The whole building is for sale for 300,000 US dollars and
is located at the northeast corner of ST. 61 and ST. 278. A good learning day. I
enjoy spending time in the back alleys and markets, in the day is safe and a great
view into the vibrant life in Phnom Penh.
The cook at Near and Far had a burn from hot
cooking oil that I dressed today and I gave her an
Advil for the pain. I will check it daily for infection.
She is a good English student, has a darling 2 year
old daughter who hangs out at the restaurant as
well as speaks English and Khmer, like her mom.
She was divorced 2 years ago and is husband shopping- yikes! Javier is a hit with
the ladies here and they call him “pretty boy”. I said it is better to say
handsome…
I did see a scooter crash last night. 3 young guys skidded out and slid down
the road at night. Sparks and shrieks abounded. No post accident collisions, it was
along the riverfront road in the main tourist district. I did not see what caused the
wreck. The extra foot pegs on the bike designed to carry multiple passengers kept
the weight of the vehicle off of them. No broken bones but one fellow slid on his
stomach and his shirt went up- so he ways definitely covered in road rash. They
got up and drove off. I wish I had my 1st aid kit then. OK off to karaoke…

Tuesday 3rd July 2007 – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:30AM
Democracy, Teacher, Good question
Breakfast now is a PBJ on wheat bread, one prune, and one salted plum,
and instant coffee. Most grocery products are Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, English,
or American brands, with a small mix of European products. If there is a Japanese
product on the shelf the price is dear. After school, I looked at the burn wound and
applied bacitrin and gave another Advil for pain. I left one for Ahda to take before
sleeping. Her ex-husband who moved to Battamong, remarried and has her older

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

son. She kept the girl, due to her young age, when they divorced. Sunday he
came to take her for 1 month as per their agreement then as he left said he was
taking her forever. Not much she can do legally. This happened the day after her
birthday. The night of her birthday she was so happy, as we all celebrated by
going out to dinner.
Sadly I have not run into any Poles but have met 3 Russians (mostly
embassy workers shopping at the nearby Lucky Market). Have really gotten to see
a lot of Phnom Penh. Tanya and Aleksey back from Sihanoukville and are officially
engaged- rings applied. It rained everyday on their 4 day holiday excursion. I
don’t understand their leaving and Javier’s trip to Saigon. Really not much to do
as compared to Austin but I am sticking it out everyday paying my dues, learning
the city. Really spending time watching locals faces as they observe different
situations and and their thoughts show upon their faces. Hygiene seems to be a
completely unknown or taught. Restaurant workers put their fingers in their
mouthes, noses, and hair, then handle food. They scoop water or tea out of
insulated coolers that look like they came from a garbage dump. We never made
it karaoke but well I did want to go without my 3 Texas compatriots. Not out of
safety but out of sharing the experience. So little to do by our entertainment
standards, sharing everything makes life a bit easier.
I am noticing certain markets are catering to certain ethnic groups. What
shocks me is the lack of thought in people owning small shops or services. A
hairdresser or tailor will set up next to 10 others in a row and make no effort to
stand out. They seem to undercut prices . All it takes is to walk away and the
price drops. They are trying to hit us up for double the price on everything, food,
transportation, and other items.
I think RUPP was a good choice for Javier and I. Based on the pleasant,
hardworking ELSU staff and the magic of these Khmer students. OK it will be a
long, long day. Yesterday I went 6 hours without water and am bringing my own
today…

Thursday 5th July – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
7:55PM
Cambodia 2007 20
The future of Cambodia. Teaching has been a reward/drain.
Wednesday was July 4th… I challenged the students with the topics of US-style
immigration patterns placed upon a modern Cambodia. They all wanted
absolutely no immigrants, especially Vietnamese. They said they take jobs, are
noisy, one arrives, then the whole family follows, and they don’t learn Khmer.
They said a border wall would be good, to this I asked if building one was feasible.
They said no, due to cost. Then I asked them if 100 Vietnamese doctors came
over with a million dollars each to build hospitals and universities , would they let
them in? They all said yes of course! Then I said they must prefer money over
people, they said no- but then I said they were contradicting themselves. The
discussion revolved and it was tough on them, smoked poured out of their ears… I
then asked them if they wanted to preserve their Khmer culture from outside
dilution- of course they said yes- then I asked how many practiced Cambodian
arts, only 1 of 56 did- traditional dancing. They said things were different here
then in America and they had no control or say in things. I looked them straight in
the eye and told them it was their future and their country so it was up to them to
take action…. it was a great day and a bit challenging for them. Better their
feathers ruffled then eggs stolen. Research is going great- learning so much. I
spend about 90 minutes a day in the Hun Sen Library (Man who deposed Pol Pot),
2 hours as office hours for students, the rest researching student questions and
lesson planning and double checking attendance- all in all about 9+ hours a day
at RUPP Monday though Thursday. Friday will be a hard day, though we (everyone
) leaves at mid-day. Staff is moderately shy, but opening up. I really think it is a
great way to help Cambodia targeting the students. I asked all the students to
write about their favorite thing in the country- the answers were varied and
fabulous. I dream of returning on the their favorite holidays to hopefully
experience the magic of this land as they loved and described their traditions
with much pride and enthusiasm.
So much to say and so little time. My day is up at 6:00AM, leave at 7:00AM,
arrive at RUPP 7:30AM, leave at 5:00PM and then off to dinner after a shower at
6:00PM or 7:00PM, back here by 8PM and soon to sleep. The weekends are now

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

valuable. I eat at Cham’s restaurant almost everyday day and have been very
healthy. The first aid I have been administering to the cook’s arm is paying off,
and I know she is really watching carefully my food preparation- wouldn’t want to
get the medic ill. She had a such a rough time losing her child, last thing she
needs is a bad infection. Tomorrow afternoon I hope to go to Irina’s Russian
restaurant and the Russian Cultural center. Cham told us of a party tomorrow
night that happens once a month, well a gathering of Aussies at a club across
from the Australian Embassy. The place is called Elsewhere, but locals say, “es-
where”. Myra, another teacher has been open with info. but catered to her
personal taste. She is a New Yorker and could pass for Woody Allen’s older sister-
looks, personality, and speaking patterns. Their are 2 Notre Dame students here
through the Sister Mary Knoll Organization and I have been learning about their
methods of prepping students for travel here. A tough selection process and an
intense orientation before the trip.

Friday 6th July 2007 – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:20AM
Stinky karaoke, I do not agree teacher, How many English speakers today??
Awoke on time and having coffee, salted plums, and a bowl of noodles for
breakfast. It has been really hard at RUPP in the heat and humidity (the ceiling
fans are over the students) and staying all day without a 15 minute siesta for my
eyes in the early afternoon. The research on the Khmer Rouge seems to be very
interesting and a good intellectual break from the day. We all hope to go to Irina’s
Russian restaurant after work at 12:30PM today. I need to run an errand or two
then just sit and think alone to keep on a steady keel. This place is not a problem
because of the multitude of distractions, rather it forces your mind into a narrow
path to block a lot of it out. I need to keep a “big picture” attitude and I now
understand the locals day to day existence. The rainy season creeps, in mostly
late night drizzle and later afternoon thunderstorms. We have been taking tuk-tuk
rides to RUPP each morning (same cost as 2 motos but ten times safer) and
returning by moto at 1 US dollar each. I use a helmet during the rush hour
commutes but usually don’t when bopping on a short jaunts. Accidents are

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

typically on routine journeys, the added rush hour and rain are a combination for
disaster. I do need to sit down and add all the important phone numbers, SOS,
ambulance, American Embassy to my phone. The next batch of students will
have it much easier, I can just give them files to upload to their mobile phones. It
would have been 25 bucks total for 2 months (SIM and $10US airtime) and could
have resold the SIM for $15 to the next batch of students- everyone thinks
different…
Today in class we talked about the Golden Rule, do unto others… I try and
explain American culture and values (that is the topic of our textbook) and
compare it to the lives of my students. It will be interesting to see the results
today…

Sunday 8th July – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
8:00AM
Booby traps after 11PM, Hazardous fans, The smell, America caused Cambodia’s
problems
Ripping is a good word to describe how money goes out of your hands here,
seems you are always handing over cash. So far I alone have been the healthiest
then again I have been to the dirtiest places and eaten more on the edge. I am
very careful when eating and often observe the employee’s personal habits and
conditions in the restaurants- appalling is a good description. Restaurant
bathrooms will have a sink to wash your hands and one communal cloth towel. It
is more a ritual to wash off dirt than disinfect your hands. I do regret packing like
it was Cambodia 1997 but with the pretrip info being so shoddy, it was better to
be prepared than not. If things deteriorated very fast here I would be in great
shape. I do not think I will travel much out of Phnom Penh this trip. I am planning
to someday return and will then explore on my time and dime. After more than 2
dozen countries visited in my lifetime, this place is best for everything yet there is
nothing to do when comparing it to my existence back in Austin. Friday night we
went to a restaurant called “Le Duo”, Mediterranean style pizza joint- slow service
(even by Cambodian standards), very busy, and half the customers were French.

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

Andre (an NGO worker and friend of Cham’s) drove in a 4wheel drive Toyota diesel
dual cab truck. Strange to be in a vehicle and in cold A/C. Last night Javier and I
went to play pool. Javier sat at the bar watching sports with 3 English teachers. In
between games I talked to them about their lives. Single Americans that were in
the military, teach English and have been living here a few years. The liked
Cambodia, told me off the dangers after 11:00PM when a few tourists might be a
bit drunk and easy targets walking in secluded areas. They earn 15 to 20 US
dollars per hour as teachers and live well. Ex pats are the way to go here for real
information. So it was a pleasant evening out.
Later that afternoon, China, the wife of Ted, the Frenchmen who has a
software company here, gave me grief because of George Bush and said all of
Cambodia’s problems were caused by America. I asked here why the USA ever
came to Indochina in the first place but she did not answer. I responded it was
due to the vacuum left by the French. That ended the discussion. I was a bit
perturbed by her words towards me as she and I always got along, she was just
hostile, but maybe being 8 months pregnant in the heat and humidity has
something to do with it.
Cham, the owner of Near and Far, read a magazine article about how the
Americans and Chinese got in a bidding war over a Swiss scientist. She said the
Americans finally said they would pay him 10,0000 US dollars over whatever the
Chinese offered. She absolutely teased and taunted me, in good spirit of course. It

proved, in her opinion, Americans weren’t clever and only had money to survive
in the world. I asked her about the wages she gives her employees, twice the
going rate. She had previously commented the day before about how in China the
people work for low wages and when exhausted the Chinese employers toss them
out. So I stated she paid more for workers than the Chinese so she was behaving
just like the Americans. She got loud and denied it. I just kept repeating it. You
pay more than the Chinese, just like the Americans. She finally walked away… it
was all in good fun.
This place is noisy beyond all belief. The local languages of Khmer and
Vietnamese seem to cut through the background noise. They talk quietly, just

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

above a whisper, and understand each other from a distance. The best non-
touristy market has been the Orussey Market, maybe one kilometer southwest of
Central Market. They sell everything needed by the locals- hardware, tools,
electronics, food in bulk. It has some of the nastiest smells. Last night I saw a few
pickup trucks loaded on the way to villages. They carried a load twice the the size
of the truck bed. Safety regulations here or rule of law is nonexistent. OK time to
shower and explore. This city is exciting yet not by western standards.

Wednesday 11th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:30AM
Peroxide, Rhythm and Rhyme, Space
The visa renewal scam for 45 bucks a month is my next adventure. I asked for a
business visa and got a tourist visa upon entry. I should have not answered their
questions and just kept repeating I was a teacher- I want a work visa. I read RUPP
teacher’s handbook for the ELSU (English Language Support Unit) yesterday. Why
on earth they did not email a copy beforehand to us I will never know. Standard
operating procedures just don’t exist. The manual shows how well organized they
are and is impressive, or it could just be any organization seems great against the
backdrop of Cambodian daily life. I had terrible back pains last night and ate a
few aspirins, I guess it is going to rain very hard in the next 24 hours. I wish I had
brought more medical supplies especially hydrogen peroxide. I can not find it
anywhere. Cuts on the lower body are exposed to the street filth and some
peroxide would be helpful.

Class yesterday was about poetry. I, as always have to find a game or
concept to help them understand. I wrote 6 words on the board and asked them
to find a word that rhymed with them. When I collected 30 words I used them in
a poem. It was easy to take all the words and create a poem/chant/rap out of
them. I explained that they had written their first poem. When I asked what
happened when you added music to a poem, they shouted a song. It was a great
day. When we actually started the assignments and reading in the book, the warm
up lesson to get their attention really paid off. I explained the rhyme of poetry
created a rhythm of the author’s emotional expression. When I read a Langston
Cambodia 2007 25
Hughes poem to them from the textbook, I did it twice. Once just monotone and
the second time very dynamically and with intonation and emotion. The look on
their faces was worth the effort, it was as if they had never heard poetry spoken
with any dynamics.
Sleeping here is a gamble and I never seem to get fully rested. Yesterday I
blanked out for a second while reading at the ELSU office. They have A/C and
ceiling fans in their office and a large sign saying, “PLEASE CLOSE”. No one seems

to bother. The heat and humidity in our classroom
is intense but manageable. If future students do
come here, there should be certain qualifications
regarding health and maturity because dealing with
all of this can be taxing (yet rewarding). I am
treating an infected toe for someone using hot
water to bring the infection out and antibiotic cream. I better find
some peroxide today. The burn I have been treating is healing and did not show
any signs of infection. I apply a daily coat of bacitrin to help heal it and prevent a
scar. The women, Ahda, is happy to have me visit each afternoon.
Thursday 12 July 2007
5:10AM
Sweat, sweat, sweat! Early to bed, early to rise.
Up early, no use trying to sleep. I feel OK. You just have to keep drudging
along here at a pace. It would be nice if I could have more interaction with locals
to feed off their energy and input, but alas life is just a different existence here.
Spending as much time speaking with RUPP ELSU staff on a personal level outside
the office. Funnest part of class is teaching new vocabulary words, especially
when talking about current events and politics. Using RUPP’s
computers to access the Internet has been great, the local Internet
café computers are vintage at best.
Yesterday I brought in a picture of myself with my previous long
Cambodia 2007 26
hair. It was a photograph from the back and I passed it around the class telling
them it was their new teacher starting tomorrow. They were a bit upset and I
asked them to describe the person from picture as we were studying first
impressions, stereotypes, discrimination, and working to rid ourselves of such
thoughts. The described the person in the picture fairly negatively. When I told
them it was me, they denied it and it took a few minutes to really convince them.
I try and do things to keep them interested and the learning process very natural
and enjoyable. Homework can be tough for them so often they are reading
articles during class. This often gives me a moment to relax, rest my voice, drink
water, and cool down. Javier stopped drinking water in class because he says he
sweats too much. Yesterday I salted my food, something I rarely have done in my
life. Hopefully it will help today. There has been a sewer leak into the street 2
blocks west of our hotel. As we were dining I joked to Javier it would not be fixed
until the sewage water flowed far enough down the street where a government
official would be subjected to the odor. We both laughed as it was probably true.
We have satellite TV at our hotel. I leave it on CNN as I don’t have a big trust for
the Brits and the BBC. It is fairly boring and makes the US version seem very
professional and informative. There are stations from almost all the local regions
and it is strange to watch Vietnamese television channels The TV from there
shows cultural governmental produced variety shows with large audiences in a
military uniforms. Almost reminds one of the USO. The audience often waves
Vietnamese flags . You could call it like you see it- propaganda.
Yesterday I read the Do’s and Dont’s of Cambodia at the RUPP Hun Sen
Library. It would have been the best guide to understanding the country
beforehand but may not have changed the events that have taken place here in
our lives. The strangest part is local contact and how through their cultural
patronage system you are expected to be a walking ATM machine. I have been
very careful and diplomatic in their attempts to squeeze cash out of me. Often
when explaining my situation or American cultural values puts them in a state of
confusion and slight emotional distress. It is a fine line dealing with such a
different society and cultural values but the choices are isolation or being on the
Cambodia 2007 27
edge and always unaware. Longterm ex pats says that after a few weeks here, I
am doing well and give additional advice on how to avoid the pitfalls and oddities.
So far no real hassles and constantly learning.
8:00PM
Very superstitious, Woody Allen’s Sister, Wounds and Healing
Well starting to feel extremely bored without local guidance. Sure life is
tough here but really not that complicated. Left RUPP early as the archives were
closed. Javier and I were there yesterday and we well asleep. They had left for
lunch and we entered and started reading. With the A/C off we passed out in the
extreme heat and they returned from lunch to find us sweating and snoozing.
They put the rope up today rather than have barangs passed out in chairs in their
archival rooms while they were away at lunch- completely understandable. I
spend the afternoons either in the archives or ELSU office. I returned at 2:00PM ,
napped, and then did some grocery shopping. It takes so little food to survive in
the heat. Yesterday at the ELSU office they had a few snacks, local pastries. They
were good and flavored with peanuts and coconut. The burn I treated down the
street is almost healed and I am hoping the woman does not have a scar
afterwards. My other case, the toe that is infected seems to be stabilized and the
hydrogen peroxide applied seemed to be well needed. Before I got some I had to
soak the foot in hot water to bring the infection to the surface. At RUPP the
students have to do volunteer work, we had 2 weeks off before class and two
weeks after, that could be used to do volunteer work in association with the RUPP
students. NGOs want longer term commitments so RUPP maybe be a good
avenue for cooperation on the Texas State student schedule. The school could use
a cleaning as the grounds are covered with litter, maybe a co-op cleanup day with
TX State students pitching in would be a good idea. A pizza party and maybe
some music afterwards would be a good reward.
I am watching a Cambodian TV channel that shows nothing but information
about Cambodia, health PSAs for rural areas, development and industry, along
with infrastructure projects. The King is often on with foreign guests and oddly
every time a western woman is present, she is overweight. Matter of fact 2/3 of

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

the western women and 1/3 of men are well over weight on the television
programs here. It must reinforce the idea we are all rich in the West. Some of the
infomercials are sponsored by USAID, Australian Government, UNICEF, etc. Bird
flu, mosquito prevention, and immunizations seem to be prevalent,.The views of
rural life and the government officials handing out pictures of the royal family to
peasants seems, well feudal. Money for framed photographs but not a dime for
health care.
We are at about our midway point, there is much I have not seen but I will
not force anything. I prefer to let events happen with local involvement rather
than play tourist. The good times are worth the wait, tourist sights will always be
around. The sewage is still leaking down the street and I guess has not disturbed
anyone with money. The power went out and it the fan and A/C so Javier an I will
head out. The voltage was down in the 180s from 220 so a brownout was
expected. Back from Cham’s Near and Far- a beer and conversation. Seems they
are my friends, they say they love me as a brother- have not heard that
expression in 25 years… They invited me to go dancing on Friday and to 7
temples on Sunday- a group event is always exciting in the city of uncertain
certainty (or is it certain uncertainty). Going to switch my morning breakfast from
bread to oats. I have been running out of steam in mid-afternoon. I do not eat
lunch as the food would make sleepy. If the RUPP cafeteria sold fruit, that would
be a good alternative for me. And why don’t I bring a lunch- oh the contradictions
of life. An iced coffee usually suffices. One of the gals teaching at RUPP from the
USA has parasites and is taking antibiotics. She works at an NGO assisting AIDS
patients. I asked her if eating there was the source- she said probably. Tomorrow
will be a short day and we leave at noon- as does everyone else.

Saturday 14th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:30PM
Five minutes, Hand made Shopping Bags, Sticks- no Stones
Stayed out till 2:30PM with Javier at a club, dancing and chatting- meeting all
sorts of folks. Many Australians last night. Locals all seem to have the same story
and attitude. Today went with everyone for a proper English breakfast at the Hope
Cambodia 2007 29
& Anchor. It was OK and overpriced, but something to do. Most visits I have to
places impress me enough NOT to return, I prefer a friendly and fun wait staff.
Afterwards walked to Orussey Market, with the gang (Tanya, Aleksey, Javier, and
the English bird, the friend of Tanya’s, forgot her name).
Visited Cham and she was making shopping bags with recycled papers. She
plans to train local AIDS patients and then sell them to clothing stores. Her plan is
to clean up the city by reusing trash, and give AIDS patients a meditative job to
keep them busy. She asked for my help in preparing a business plan. It is exciting
it have such an opportunity. So much going on observation wise but hard to write
down. A small personal recorder would have been prefect.
I may not head out without any groups tonight but have a light meal and
retire early. Time is now at the half way point, I seem to have changed much,
gained knowledge and understanding of life here. Somehow it is still all so
amazing. The voltage is again 186- soon the power may go out…

SUNDAY 15th JULY – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
4:15AM
Up Early, Family Affair, Short Sleep
I still can’t sleep more than 6 hours. Drinking water daily more than
breathing air. It is strange, I walk much, eat well, and feel good, but just don’t get
the sleep I am expecting. My days are not full of fatigue. Maybe with the days so
short in the summer as compared to North America, my mind expects one thing
(a longer day) and another happens. It is dark by 7:00PM here and by the time
9:00PM rolls around it feels like midnight.
I have to do a 7 temple journey today and I hope the clouds roll in and it is
not sweltering. Yesterday the clouds disappeared for awhile around 3PM and
intense heat ensued.

8:00AM
Slept poorly for a few hours. 2 coffees, 2 slices of bread, and watching TV from
Vietnam. A show with war footage in black and white combined with burial
ceremonies for remains of recently found soldiers who died over 30 years ago. It
was very sad seeing the funeral procession. The war footage showed troop

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

movements of NVA forces not combat footage. It portrayed a massive movement
of military strength but showed no enemy, ARVN, French, or American forces.
After the program the women narrating were military officer’s uniform. There
about 64 channels at out hotel, some have poor audio quality. I noticed each
room has different style telephone. The bathroom has 3 shower heads, cold
shower, hot shower via a small water heater, and a well a bum wash, courtesy of
French Imperialism. No hot water in the sink, only cold. The whole room is a
shower, and there is no tub. The bathroom floor is not slippery and the only
danger I have faced here is when my feet are wet and I walk into the main room
of my hotel- slippery as ice. OK, off on a 7 temple jaunt in a few minutes.

Monday 16 July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
5:15AM
ABCD, Gaw Kaw Goe Koe, Destination versus Point on a Learning Curve
Full on 100% day, one of the top ten in my life- and it can’t be taken away. Funny
how some days one thinks are great moments, and then later learning the day
was filled with deception… yesterday, however, was perfect. Cham and her
employees had invited me to go on their pilgrimage to 7 Buddhist temples. They
invited Javier too. It was to start at 9:00AM and she promised us breakfast. I
agreed to pay for one of the 2 tuk-tuks as Cham said they would be $15 each for
the day, at the end of the day she paid, as we only took one. The sewer line out
front of her café’ is about done, just the sidewalk needs refinishing. All sidewalks
are like those I saw in Poland , sand and heavy tile/bricks. Makes for easy removal
and repaired with low labor costs, a great solution in poorer countries. Maybe I am
wrong and it is a tradition to use tile/bricks in ancient countries as compared to
modern cement. Or maybe the brick makers just pay off the city governments
better than cement companies!
Cham offered me a coffee and hand squeezed
orange juice (They say “oran jew”.) Breakfast was
rice noddle made fresh that morning from a corner
shop and delivered wrapped in cabbage leaves.
Cham proceeded to grind a chili pepper, cloves of

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

garlic, and mixed with soy sauce and oil in a mortar and pestle. A bowl of cold rice
noodles with a spoonful of this sauce made for a great tasting breakfast.
We headed to a Buddhist temple complex and it was right next to the Don
Bosco Technical School. Everyone could not believe that I was supposed to go
outside of the city here on a daily basis as the distance was not only far and
expensive, but a rough ride. At the temple we obtained small bills from money
changers, 100 riel notes, then placed a few in a dish, lit incense, and said a few
prays to Buddha on our knees in a with hands held together holding the sticks of
burning incense touched to the forehead. Never tone or two sticks, three was
good. After you get up walk to some pots filled with
sand, place the incense in and while standing bow and
say a quick prayer. Afterwards they asked what I prayed
for, I told them it was something good but in my culture
we do not speak our wishes and hopes in prayers to
others as not to spoil them. They accepted this. Next we
moved on to sit in front of a monk, joining a family of 6. So twelve of us gathered
things we wanted blessed for good luck. I put in my cellphone, as did everyone,
along with my St. Michael the Archangel medallion. Under the items we placed a
2 or 3 dozen 100 riel notes. The monk said prayers and blessings to us and then
held each item and made a statement. It lasted 5 minutes.
We were then led away by an assistant to a corner in the room. This was
after the monk walked away. Our items were left there. A few moments later out
items were returned and and a sheet of paper printed in Khmer with a price list
varying from 100 to a couple hundred dollars. It was for donations to build
different size building on the complex. After we were lead a few feet out the door
to a water garden and everyone was leaving personal items and backpacks and
purses inside. I said I could carry my fanny pack, little did I know what was about
to commence. We stood in a line shoulder to shoulder, heads slightly bowed, and
hands held together at the forehead. The monk chanted, and using a stick with an

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

absorbent material attached, proceeded flung water on our heads individually. .
The amount was substantial so I quickly pulled off my fanny pack and tossed it
into the temple door. After 2 rounds of soaking he then flung water in our faces. It
was all very, well natural, not intimidating, and I think I could go through this
leading a group of tourists. Originally I told the group, I may not participate but it
was so easy to fit in. Everyone was accepting of my company, especially the
monks. The monks are really something special here as they are very integrated
into the daily existence. All in all this country, though totally foreign, is an
absolute cakewalk with such a kind nation of people. After the event, we walked
to another monk in a courtyard and did another ritual followed by self cleansing
while standing over the edge of a pond
Afterwards we headed on National Route 5 to the Udong Temple complex, it was
about 50 or 60 kilometers away and paralleled the Tonle Sap on the way to
Battambong. The temples were on a steep hill with
a grand view across the plains of rice paddies and
coconut palms. I commented it was strange to see
such serenity as I previously had only seen rice
paddies in the media with a dozen helicopters
buzzing through them. Most of the other folks
napped on the way out, leaning on each other, as they dozed off in the early
afternoon sun. It was partially cloudy and not too hot. When we arrived it was like
a bi-centennial celebration, food and souvenir vendors a plenty.
Every local creature and agricultural product was
being cooked, grilled, or
steamed. We did stop on the way
out for some steamed corn, and
as usual the vendors are always
grouped selling the same item,

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not a western marketing technique. We ate some steamed corn on the drive
obtained from roadside vendors. Having been raised in northern Ohio, I had a
great appreciation for fresh steamed corn in the husk. To my shock it was what we
called field corn back in the States and usually fed to animals. It was starchy and
lacked flavor but still good too eat. It was about as sweet as plan oatmeal and a
strange dull yellow color.
Going up the hill to the temples in Udong, kids ran around with fans hoping
to get hired to cool you as you walked the steep steps. We all declined but they,
as well as the girls selling bracelets in every color followed us half way up. We
had bought rice, fish, 2 small watermelons, water, and a
whole grilled chicken. We sat in a cabana with a raised
bamboo floor in a circle, washed our hands with the
bottled water and ate with our finger tips. The chickenstill had the head and
when opened revealed the legs and claws inside. Placing the legs
inside the carcass prevented the dark meat
from drying out. The chicken was cooked just
barely enough and a tad more time on the grill
would have been nice for health reasons. They
did offer some rice and fish to a old man begging a few feet away down the path.
We bought to Cokes® from the vendor by the cabana and tossed scraps to a dog.
All the dogs here stay out of peoples way.
We then walked up to the beautiful temple, we were accompanied by 2
young monks, in their late teens. One spoke English and talked much and was
curious about geography. He admitted he did not now the difference in size
between England and America, or where they were for that matter. One event
was fun, while someone was buying a bracelet, a 100 note flew off in the breeze,
went through the cement guardrail and and laid on th edge of the pagoda floor

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with a couple of hundred feet drop below. The kid tried to reach it and couldn’t. It
was out of my reach so I pulled off my belt and using the buckle, swung it on top
to keep it flying away. With a crowd of 30 plus people watching I tried to drag the
note with the weight of the buckle, as soon as I got close the surface of the floor
was rough and the note would not slide under the weight of the belt buckle. The
note would blow back and flip flop in the wind back to the edge. The whole crowd
would howl and hoot to every move. Then all of a sudden a 6 or 7 year old girl
jumps onto the rail. I was terrified she would fall as she went for the 100 riel note
(~ 2.5 US cents). So I grabbed her arm and asked someone to get her down. Of
course there were no English people nearby and a child in danger did not seem to
phase them. They were all just concerned whether or not the foreigner would
save the 100 riel note. So while repeatedly trying to drag the note and
subsequent failures followed by wind gusts taking back to the edge, I was just
about panicked with the squirming child trying to jump to the edge. I finally pulled
it in, dropped my belt on to the note, pulled the child down with my left arm then
reached through the rails to get the note. It was something out of a film and not
an experience I want to repeat. The child as did the crowd, did not say thanks or
show any gratitude. I had been told here, in a Buddhist land, the fact that I had
someone to help was good enough, and that I should be the thankful one for
raising my karma’s level. It is something you have to experience. Cambodia, no
matter what you read or hear is a place for living and learning, not observing and
analyzing. On the return home it poured buckets of sideways rain. We returned
about 5:30PM.

The traffic returning was fast and furious with speeding trucks and buses.
Everyone in a car was driving while on the cellphone and 5 people packed in the
front seat was common. Tractors pulled carts of people and when it rained they
all just held a sheet of plastic over them (about 20 people packed on each cart).
OK- it is time to clean up, eat a light breakfasts and move out. I wonder if
Javier will be hungover? Tonight we have (Javier and I) an invite to a women’s
home for dinner. She teaches at RUPP in the career office. I also have a dinner
invite from Cham’s later this week for a Vietnamese specialty, BBQ fish.

Phnom Penh Diary 2007
Tuesday 17th July
5:00PM
US Embassy times 2, Fever and a Rash, Living Fields
Great day at the Hun Sen Library- recommendation number 27 to students- do
your research the whole trip in bits, keeps you focused on purpose and sense of
self, enhances everyday action, and helps one understand the current
environment. A Dutch ex Pat with 14 years here says the Khmer Rouge get the bill
as the scapegoat but he feels it started way before then. He also thinks the
French saved Cambodia as if they had not arrived then Thailand and Vietnam
would have swallowed it up. A very different perspective.
When I visited Ahda to see her burn wound, Cham was covered in a slight
red rash running in streaks combined with a fever. She felt dizzy. I recommended
water, rest, aspirin, and cortisone cream. I had both medicines and retrieved
them from my hotel. She was just sitting and staring blindly into space and I got
her to drink a few glasses of water, lay down, take an aspirin and apply the
cortisone to the rash.
RUPP ELSU unit is having a party in two weeks and the weekend following
classes going to Sihanoukville for a weekend (staying over Saturday night). I did
not commit as I had two reasons, 1st to check my calendar and see if I could
allocate the time and wait a day or two to see the dynamics of the office and
politics now that an event has been scheduled. There was an earthquake in Japan
and some unrest in Thailand, where Javier is soon off to. Time is moving slow the
last few days.

Thursday19th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
5:34PM
IRG, Best day of my life, Throw in the towel, Picture on the wall
At Near & Far just ate a late lunch/early dinner. Left RUPP at 12:30PM, trying to
wait from class end 11:00AM until 2:00PM when the archives open is too much in
the heat and humidity. No kids ever come by the office during my 2 hours there. I
have completed much and just need computer access to do my work, an air-
conditioned restaurant will suffice much better. I spoke to Sumaly about a Texas

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

State office and she bumped me up to another office, someone who I did not
know or have not met (or maybe I have). She was very helpful. I just found out
that RUPP is a teacher’s college (like TX State) and after graduating the kids will
head back to the provinces.
Today I threw out the lesson plan and created a Democratic Republic out of
my students. I asked for their help in selecting the next batch of
students/instructors for next summer. I did this on four levels. To start, I asked
them to name a few qualities/characteristics about me they liked, not as a
teacher but as a person. After coming up with 5, I asked them individually to
make a list of 5 for what they would want in their next TX State student/instructor.
After that, I divided them into 5 groups of about 5 to 6 students. I made sure
friends were not together. Then they had to 1st select a secretary of the group,
the men tried to assign the women the task but I would not stand for it, either
someone volunteered or they discussed it. it was funny to see such open unaware
sexism in a classroom.. They then were asked to use all their individual lists to
combine into one, so the 25 characteristics written by 5 people had to reduced to

I insisted that they speak up and argue against those qualities they did or did
not want. I gave them 20 minutes AND DID THEY EVER GO AT IT! All in English.
After selection was completed, each group had to select a leader. More on that
later, I pulled the leaders of the 5 group leaders were then instructed to pick a
secretary and go make their group list of desirable qualities for the my
replacement next year at the school café . They were each given 2,0000riel for
soda, coffee, tea, snack, or whatever. I made sure that the class knew they were
getting special treatment as elected group leaders and kept calling them the
“elites”. They were overjoyed as they were getting out of class 40 minutes early
to talk and enjoy a free refreshment. Then I asked the 5 secretaries to right their
respective groups lists on the board. Either each person casting one vote, they
picked the quality they liked best from each list. The top 2 in number of votes
went to the final list. Afterwards we discussed the types of lists; 1) individual
preferences 2) small groups preferences 3) large group democratic preferences
4) republic preferences, ( the elected leaders from t

discussed the good and bad of each type of decision making. The lists I said
would be input towards future teachers so they were very concerned. They all
understood how complicated and the amount of effort needed for full democracy
(large group voting on preferences), appreciated the heated debates and personal
contact in small groups and were a bit weary of a republic, and style decision
making- leaders getting special treatment while making decisions in private. They
did agree that a republican form of decision making made things easier. I also
kept reminding them THEY selected the leaders.
Tomorrow we will confront all the choices to see which type of group will be
best in recommending a teacher’s characteristics. My course is about American
culture and diversity and I feel today really involved the kids in the learning
process I want to call them my kids as they are starting to express themselves
and realize want is going on. After class the sociology kids handed me their group
manifesto and asked me to help with the grammar and style. I just typed a copy
and I am impressed. After so much time around American students who avoid
reality plugged in to their Ipods, these few young men are going at it full one.
They meet under a coconut tree in front of the RUPP Hun Sen library. I
occasionally sit their and rap with them. It is hot, dusty, and insect laden but it
does not deter them. They feel their nation is at stake. I am very honored they
trust me enough to work with them. They have other classes with foreign
teachers and this really is the opportunity of a lifetime to really help. It is on
small level with a handful of young adults but it is grander than trying to change
the world.

Saturday 21st July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
9:50AM
My name is, Ka-migh Ka-migh, Sray-tuy, Bye-Bye, Double Barang
Starting yesterday, a very long day. I met a man from Switzerland who has
lived in Phnom Penh for 2 years. He sold everything and decided to travel the
world slowly for 4 years. From traveling the Americas he became entrenched
here. It is hard to explain a place turned upside down with almost no law
enforcement or applicable regulations that has such attraction. Our conversation

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

was good as it was about even the bad things. Being from Texas does not sit well
with most Europeans I meet as it seems to be labeled Bush country.
Understandable. In the hotel lobby a moment ago, 2 blokes were joking about
how the weather here changes quickly (a storm front just rolled in) as fast as US
policy in Iraq. Touche’! Well the conversation went until 1:30AM and I was in bed
and asleep by 2. Alas it was a school night (oh! the conversation was so fun, it
was worth losing sleep!) and off I went the next morning on 4 hours sleep. In was
extra humid and I starting sweating (perspiring is an understatement) the second
I went outside. Class went well but breaking the “don’t stay out late on a school
night” rule has its consequences. My ex-girlfriend and her brother from Singapore
arrived. Javier and I rolled over to their hotel after class. The frustrations of
modern life which slipped from memory returned as we walked into the Hotel
Intercontinental. Seeing my ex-girlfriend and her brother for me was exciting but
when we went to lunch instantly all the incompatibility returned. I was frustrated.
Later I asked Javier if it was me but he said he did notice she had a negative tinge
to all her responses.
After lunch I took my weekly malaria tablet. A nap was needed but I seemed
to have elevated body temperature for the afternoon and could not sleep after
taking the tablet. Every hour I took a cool shower. The malaria medicine felt like
having the disease with symptoms of a fever. The say there is no malaria in
Phnom Penh but occasional mosquitoes attack silently under the tables to let you
know all is not well in the land of slacking. The afternoon siesta routine is helpful
and I sorely missed it today. Any future interns should not be subjected to a full
day (8 hours) unless they are working in an airconditioned environment.
Afterwards Jason and I went to Cham’s place for a snack then off to play pool. Well
upon arrival the place was a bit too busy and filled with narly locals. We glanced
at a menu and Jason wanted something different. We headed down the street
found a place for grub. He ate and I was still full from lunch. After he motoed it
back to the Intercontinental Hotel (or “Intah-kon” as the locals call it). I returned
to Cham’s. Three of my adopted sisters and I went to a few places, they to dance
and me to listen and observe. We ended up at Memphis, a boat doubling as a

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

disco. Full of westerners and I felt extremely uncomfortable around them. They all
seemed self involved running on individual internal rhythms and much too much
alcohol. It was outdoors and on the Mekong, a few of Cham’s Italian friends were
there and it was OK but boring deluxe. The river gave me the impression of
death- Mekong , river of death. I split and went off to a bar near the hotel that I
was invited to by one of Cham’s friends. It was OK, very slow and I played board
games with the bartender and talked with the owner, Mai Lynn (she is in her late
30’s). We were able to chat some in Russian as she was from Vietnam. It was a
late night (1:00AM) and when I came home I slept better than usual. But the
curse of very little sleep returned and I was up early. I did decide to have a Khmer
name to ease , it is easy to pronunciation. The the smiles and laughter my Khmer
name brings to locals is worth having it. I chose “Jomrarn”. I told my adopted
family, they howled with delight. They often address me now as brother and it is
a good word to hear.
I am very happy not having the American “go-get-em-tiger” attitude and
feel well adjusted to life here. The art of listening seems so much more important
now.
Any American characteristics I have have can be used very effectively when the
time is right but otherwise would be out of place and cause confusion. I dropped a
1,000 riel the other day due to a swift breeze. A homeless street kid nearby
grabbed and returned it to me. I gave him a 500 riel as a reward, half and half, a
good philosophy to live by here . Storms continue, I am off for a cup of real
coffee. The variety of bean here gives me shaky hands and disrupts my sleep. My
ex-girlfriend brought some Italian roast as per my request, why an Italian blend?
To share with my friends from Roma of course.

6:10PM
Quiver, I know you, Flood and Coffee, Dos & Donts
The heavy rains brought a surprise, Cham’s restaurant was filled with 3 inches of
water. May not seem deep but in a room 15 feet by 40 feet and a kitchen in back,
an ark was in order. I bailed water for an hour non-stop. It was humid but cool due
to Cambodian standards and was actually fun to work with my “sisters”. A rain

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

drain gutter pipe was not directed properly so I mounted a stick on the end of the
pipe to carry the water away from the front door and towards the street. Of
course I used a piece laying in the street. I need to get a tube of silicon caulk to
stop the leak by the side door. Cham arrived after the rain and was grateful. I did
finally have a cup of real coffee. Jason called and I met him, Jami (my ex), and two
of his friends from Oz (Australia) who live in Phnom Penh for dim sum at the
“Hoteh Intah-kon”. They (the Ozzies) are videoographers like Jason and gave me
insights to locations with materials where I could do research with. They asked
where I was staying, and again, as always, was told how safe that part of Phnom
Penh is. The did talk about the knife incident and I have learned the truth from
what happened from the Ozzies. Seems an ex-lover of the owner (a Frenchman)
came back to the Equinox restaurant and bar (a few doors east of our hotel) and
demanded money from her. He was enraged and breaking things in an attempt to
squeeze/scare money out of her. He was screaming on how he deserved it
(doesn’t everyone in Cambodia?). and finally it got so out of hand a local slashed
him to stop his violent rage. I asked if the man had attempted to kill him and was
told it wasn’t uncommon for an attack by a local in such a situation, is not
intended to kill, but stop the violence. So it all makes sense now, or does it?
For lunch we had dim sum on the 2nd floor restaurant of the
Intercontinental Hotel, I got there by moto for a buck. When telling the driver
where I just said, “Intah-kon” and off we went. The food was rich and kept me
quiet for the remainder of the afternoon. When I returned I came back to check
all the cuts and burns on the employees at Cham’s and sure enough she was
being creative again. Taking used plastic shopping bags and sewing them into
designer shopping bags. They were strong enough to hold 3 full liquor bottles. In
the US she would be a great success, in Cambodia , a generous, caring person. I
am thinking I will have a regret, something rare in my life, of departing this place.
The friends and smiles in the midst of such chaos/harmony has become a daily
joy. If someone asked me the meaning of life, the secret to happiness, or another
general philosophical question, it would be tough to answer. I have one foot in the
East and other in the West. I expected a clash of cultures, instead I have found
Cambodia 2007 41
calm and focus. Tomorrow I will dedicate it to the manifesto that I was given by
the sociology students.
I snagged a Cambodian Yellow Pages book in exchange for my labor at
Cham’s. It is possible to download a copy from their site (http://www.yellowpages-
cambodia.com/windows/download/). The maps and info in it are priceless. Before
the Internet I used to collect yellow pages from all the major world cities. Times
have changed but this book will be worth its weight in dried fish when I get home.
Jason and Jami found a copy of the book I was looking for, but only one copy was
available. The sun is setting and I will probably stroll. Down to Cham’s to
network, a funny word to use. As I bop around town many moto and tuk-tuk
drivers walk up to me and shake my hand and say, “Do you remember me- I know
you”. It takes a second but I do remember them, when they are in a different
background at a different time of day it takes a second. Well it is a good feeling to
know people remember me and are kind- sure they need cash, but at least it is
via a social interaction and not just a demand. Some of the tuk-tuk drivers on
the street in front of the other hotels never get business from me and hound me
to no end. When I say no thanks, it is often in Russian- they now call me “Russie”
or “Russo” as I walk by, we usually exchange smiles.
6:35AM Sunday 22nd July 2007.
The Khmer Rich and the trendy Westerners collide causing boredom
Maybe I slept well, who knows, but I would definitely change malaria medicines
next trip to the tropics. Tanya and Javier have had some illness but I have only
suffered from irregular sleep patterns, suffered as in a symptom not actually
discomfort. Last night a drag but how did it all begin. .. Went to Cham’s around
8PMish. Relaxed with a plate of french fries and met an Austrian working for the
UN. He was right off the plane. Here to do evaluations of the police over the next
few months for the Khmer Rouge trials. He needed a lot of help, though well
traveled, had guide book disease. He has spent time in Thailand and the
Philippines (and has a Filipino wife) but was at a loss on some basics that took us
2 weeks to figure out. With the help of my Cambodian sisters, we made him
comfortable, confident, and his frustration melted away. He came to the right spot

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

and hopefully will come back. I can learn much from a UN worker.
A customer took Cham and her employees out to dinner @ 9:30PM and left
Lynn there to run the place alone. Cham asked me to help out by watching over
things. Mainly security and translation. Yesterday I could have done the repairs I
discussed with her but alas intention and general direction is all that is needed,
completion will follow in time. I did put language skills to work in the time they
were gone. I had not intended to go out but when they returned we went to a
small club, the Q Bar. Trendy Westerners and rich Khmers. The Khmer girls were
dressed like in the Cambodian TV dance videos, beautiful clothes and Cinderella
hair, adorned with jewelry and make-up. The Cambodians were well fed and sat
down at tables while the Westerners talked and stood up. It was creepy over all
and my group sort of just, well felt bored. The interaction between Westerners
was a yuppie happy hour pick up bar scene, not my style. I am glad I have more
of a mission than a job. I could not live with a job that is separate from a goal, or
would be very boring existence. The whites and browns ignored each other,
seems the local rich were more there to show off their imitation skills of western
culture than to have fun. I poked every one for an alternative and after a few
minutes we meandered out the door. Outside, everyone admitted it was time to
go home. Ahda offered to go somewhere with me but we did not know where.
Usually we have a group activity and go where there is dancing and lively
atmosphere. The group dynamic is fun and always much laughter. We jumped in a
Tuk-tuk and headed home. We were near to our residence as the bar was next to
the Cambodia-Vietnam friendship memorial so it was quick journey. Such an odd
monument due to the fact how much my students and general populace hate the
Vietnamese. It was probably built by the Oxymoron Construction and
Development Corporation. Seeing the overweight gold adorned Cambodians
makes me wonder if this top 10% of Khmer society is aware that the fate of the
bottom 90% is tied to their future as well. Or maybe they feel they have control
and in doing so break rule number one.
I wonder if Jami and Jason will call me, they don’t seem interested in asking
me for things to do or see, well they never care to be that involved with me

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

unless I can do something for them. I wonder if they are really friends? I have lost
8 pounds and feel good. We have switched from our original walking everywhere
mode to being sacks of transported potatoes. The hours pass by slow here, so
different than the US. The only time things seem to go by fast is when I am
teaching, otherwise the experience of traveling through time seems to match my
thought pattern and it makes for a comfortable feeling. I got up to make a cup of
coffee had an epiphany and forgot it- ah Cambodia! Maybe some thoughts are
better that way, truly living then forgetting the moment.
I think I will find some silicon weatherizing caulk for the leak at Cham’s
place (it’s called Near and Far but I never seem to call it that) as today will be dry
and I can do the repair before the tropical sun arrives in all its glory and energy
draining side effects. I have become greatly fond of the real Cambodian national
motto, not the “Nation, religion, King” but rather “Eat alone, die alone.” The most
horrible moments of my life are in Austin, eating alone at home and at
restaurants. Modern life is modern death. Like eating with Javier do to the fact it
may or not involve alcohol. A meal and a cold beer, end of story. With Tanya and
Aleksey it was first drinks, a meal, and then off for a bit more drinking. Good for
some but not a lifestyle I can physically tolerate. I am again excited about having
a real cup of coffee, bacon and eggs for breakfast. I have noticed in this Buddhist
land, ants in the sugar jar don’t seem to be a problem as it would be back home.
The thought of leaving, I admitted to Cham yesterday, haunted me…
9:40AM
Two tubes of silicon and a caulk gun only
$3.25, happy friend priceless. The second I walked
outside this morning I started sweating, today is the
opposite of the cool morning yesterday. Stopped by
the International Bookstore (IBC) for an envelope,
they sold them but in packs of 50, I will instead
make one. The hardware store was across the street from Near and Far and had a
myriad of items, very 1950s style business. I need to find some WD40 type
lubricant as her night security gate is tough to close and lock. I banged my finger

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

helping shut it one evening and have a reason to make it right. I found the
Cambodian/EU Institute for Democracy that Tanya described. There is also a few
other places I can do research but they are out of my daily routes. The last two
weeks here will be spent exploring these facilities. Off for breakfast, it has been
14 hours since my last snack, and 21 hours since my last meal.

Monday 23rd July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:35AM
Emotional Rescue, Italians Everywhere, Pick Up and Move
All is good this morning, gray sky, some decent sleep. I get more exercise than
most locals but still don’t get that quality sleep. Hung out doing schoolwork
yesterday, checking total intern hours, lesson plan, personal calendar. Tanya sick
again. Had dinner with Javier at Cham’s. I ate all Western -style food yesterday
except a grilled banana. I am going to lunch with my Texas friends but will not
eat. The portion will be too much and wear me out in the heat. Maybe I will just
have a coffee and smile. Soon Javier leaves for Japan- not sure why. He is lucky,
he has enough money to go on his own. The date for the Wilson Foundation Award
changed from this Thursday to Friday. Glad I was told (sarcastic tone), I had to ask
again, as usually, to just to reconfirm the time. This place is funny like that- those
little cultural courtesies we expect some how aren’t relevant. And they talk about
saving face.
Well school is always different and often have to accommodate the lesson
plan to the students mood, enthusiasm level mood, or attitude. It’s like feeding
spinach to a toddler. OK my typing is random and thoughtless. Sometimes a
decent word rolls out- but not too often not. Oh- my new friend Gery, the Austrian
UN worker, working security at the Khmer Rouge trials is a fun guy and educated.
We can discuss things related to my schooling on a pleasant open minded level- it
is to have neutrally opinionated friends to talk history, life, and politics with.
7:00PM
Sleep, Amoebas, Evaluations, Antonyms and Synonyms
Tanya has parasitic amoebas tearing her up. She went to the SOS Center.

Tuesday 24th JULY Phnom Penh Diary 2007
5:20AM
Hair, Khmai Fuya, Headache, New friends? Return of the Wookie
The other day I caught Cham and her cook, Ahda, napping on the prep table in
the kitchen, yes, I took a photo. They instantly awoke and chased me around
trying to get the camera. I guess I was jealous as I used to be able to sleep
anywhere, anytime- not anymore. Up at 4:00AM and have much to do. Myra (the
possible Woody Allen’s sister) and her friend are riding with us tomorrow. Javier
kindly rearranged the time without asking me. He is a bit slower in the morning
and I am down on time each morning. So he figured it was cool to rearrange the
time. Since I am having difficulty registering for classes at ACC and need to print
and fax some documents, I will leave at 7AM on a moto, I can not wait for him,
especially tomorrow. The early morning there before class is always productive for
me and today I need that time more than ever. The abundance of people after
class, 1st shift leaving and afternoon shift arriving, makes computer access
difficult. Well I am official blocked to register at 3 central TX Universities and I am
9,000 miles from the offices. Funny how that works. I hope to load my last bit of
pictures to the website.
Still discovering the city but really take it as it flows into my life. Funny how
little things can mean so much. The culture difference can really ruin expectations
and and I seem to live for the moment and what is within grasp. Food- eat,
Friends- talk, bed- sleep, students-teach, hard to explain but the mind does not
drift or have wandering thoughts of lists of things to do, people to see, and places
to visit. I do carry a notepad for thoughts as so much would slip by without it. One
mistake is that I did not bring a small mobile hand held wireless Internet device,
which I have. I had no idea it would be so secure at the hotel and genuinely safe
on the streets. I planned and packed for Phnom Penh 1997. Live and learn.
The last two weeks will be shopping and research. I have to stop eating
lunch as it ruins my day, funny huh? The local schedule suits me quite well except
for the amount of food they eat. Cham offered me a free place to stay but I do
have to get back for school at ACC and my 2nd year Russian class. I wish could
stay but need to get back to work, maybe someday… Sun is approaching, time for

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

a shower and 40 cent noodle breakfast. I need to buy a few gifts, tools, kramas,
and black pepper. The black pepper here is like nothing I have ever tried. The
standard condiment is salt, pepper, and lime juice- heaven to the tongue.
I have avoided foods I would consume at home that are not native to this
area. No cheese or ice cream. Well one time we had ice cream. Things like salads
and sandwiches have been avoided and basically it has been rice and Asian
dishes. A shower and coffee later, plus some standard hotel exercises and an
earful CNN watching presidential candidates in a debate doing nothing but
dodging questions with words and hand gestures. And now they are attacking
each other instead of answering the questions….
3:25PM
No luck and I feel great. I had a green coconut for the electrolytes. Stopped by
Cham’s, she snagged the apartment next door ($100/month) and has offered me
a room for free. With only 1 person signed up for Russian II at ACC, my
registration blocked due to needing to prove Texas Residency (was already
enrolled and completed this a few years back), and unable to register at Texas
State – I don’t see why I need to go back. Only reason is my dog, I could stay for
another month if I did not have that responsibility. I hope to finish my survey
charts of student questions so I may distribute them in class. When I showed
them one graph showing their current family size versus their personal preference
for family size, they were surprised that they were following western cultural
trends. Some looked at the charted data like it was new language. Other than
zero geography skills, the ability to read charts and graphs must also be lacking.
OK, I awoke Tanya calling her to see if she needed anything and she was too tired
to talk. She joked last week about only allowing female students to come here
due to their superior quality, and now the men are going to the store for her. Life
is ,well, life…

Wednesday 25th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
3:30PM
No More Questions, Rice Porridge, Sleep Brother for Power
Took a nap, seems the disrupted sleep patterns are gone. I stopped taking the
malaria medication and am finally cashing in the chips. I have functioned well but
now realize my reaction to the drugs was not on the best. It has been 7 days
since a dosage. Off to send a fax, get a haircut, and obtain money and food.
Tanya liked the rice porridge I got yesterday and I need to pay the hotel bill again.
Much to do in the way of little things but nothing is easy but never complicated,
just seems to nibble the time away.
I met with the sociology students to correct their grammar on their club
charter. It should be a bit of work but nothing an hour and a synonym dictionary
can not fix, School, as always is a fine balance. It is a struggle to follow the book
on each and every exercise as it is somewhat over the students level. The lack of
knowledge in basic subjects can make exercises complicate and I hate to over
explain. I also use group and partner participation instead of me explaining or a
dictionary. I am trying to get them to assist and rely on each other more. A few of
the students do the work very hard but most comprehend little, or in 15 minutes
forget what they just learned. Reviews of the previous days vocabulary and
learning techniques does slow the class. I would rather have a few solid bricks
made than a wall of rabble.
Today textbook topic was communication in technologies and modern social
changes that it causes. They all said more computer access and Internet access
were main concerns of theirs, but when I showed them the social implications and
changes it brings they did have an awareness of some of its downfalls.

Thursday 26th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:50AM
Up at 2:00AM, finished some paperwork, and then back to bed at 3:30AM. I did
not here the alarm and luckily awoke at 6:05AM. OK much to do at RUPP as the
window is closing. Easy and fast Internet access near our hotel is something I
could have used this journey but have adapted. Cham has her new apartment
and offered me a room, yes I could stay , find a job and live here. The offer is also
in the future, so if I return I have a home and family. Many observations I need to
write down about little things I witnessed and learned. A feeling that I can’t
explain all this to those in the USA has come over me as I realize I am really
Cambodia 2007 48
leaving. Ran into Kathy from the US Embassy, she had no business cards. The
woman from Chicago that I mentioned before who does English language
curriculum development. OK much to write , little time, it will be a long day at
RUPP.

Friday 27th July Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:35AM
Pity me? Twitch, Pirate, Som tarp moi
Not much good to say about Mary Knoll Sisters volunteers attitudes and social
skills but they are very typical Americans, so I will stay silent.

Tuesday 31st July – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
3:00AM
Chet #2, Bouncing roads, Passing on the Right, Fear of Buddha,
Have not written for awhile. Last Friday went out
with Gery and met a co-worker of his, Wayne from
Melbourne, Australia. Both are involved in the Khmer
Rouge trials in regards to assisting the police. Over a glass
of wine they do had stories to tell about worldwide trouble
spots they have worked in. The RUPP ELSU trip to
Sihanoukville was in complete Cambodian style- loose
organization but full of good intentions. An exercise in
patience to an American, a good time due to the background and novelty of it all.
A total group outing, the itinerary was a guideline but the reality of it strange. I
would say it was worth it up to a point as at times it brought out the weaknesses
of us all.
My attempt at humor- how does a group of
Cambodians solve a problems? 45 minutes of silence
and then the situation changes- no more problem. The
drive back was wild and I had never been in a fully laden
diesel Mercedes Benz van with failing shock absorbers

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

going 60 MPH then passing on the right on the berm of a road in a village with the
horn full blast and everyone and thing jumping out of the way. And that was the
boring part of it all. Not much of a rainy season but I did wise up and throw on my
poncho before getting on a moto on the ride back from RUPP when we returned.
The rain is intense here but spotty, it makes you think the rain will miss you, then
once stuck in traffic or out in the open ,comes a falling down.
A bomb supposedly went off at the Cambodian-Viet Nam Peace Memorial
today, and 2 other ones diffused. Nothing heard or seen in the local press or CNN.
Well it would be bad for tourism… I found out about it from Wayne who received a
text message earlier while he was at the Central Market. He said when the text
message arrived he decided that he and his friends should leave, in such a
situation with the world as it is, his friends complied. I wanted to swing by and
see the damage today but was distracted by a search for a 16 amp motorcycle
battery for my friend Kevin in Siem Reap. None could be found after 10 stores and
using Yellow Pages and mobile phone. The Yellow Pages have always been a
historic good source of information but alas the traveler often forgets and goes by
the guide books. Sleep is still out of grasp as I seem to have a Cambodian
lifestyle consisting of sleep when necessary and often in the afternoons. There is
so much to write about but sad I have to do it so late (or is it early) in the
morning).

8:30AM
Up and out to check email- someone thinks I am working with them this
weekend in Austin- I checked the schedule and am not. I emailed them to say
double check the schedule. It was a bit scary the second I opened the email. The
Wilson Foundation Scholarship ceremony went off but with one hitch. They
switched it to the last possible day (Tanya was sick and did not attend) and the
night before Javier asked me if we should put the money in envelopes (the stores
had closed)- DOH! 30 minutes before the ceremony he snags some from the ELSU
office, writes their names on the outside. I brought some of Dr. Dunn’s business
cards and Texas State pins to toss in the envelopes. We arrived exactly at 2:30PM
and everyone was there waiting. We both took photos and after one student gave
me a few email addresses to send the pictures to. All students were in uniform
and extremely polite and nice. They were most likely overjoyed with such a gift
but in such a culture could not openly express it. I will most likely put pictures of
them on my website and they can download them. I insisted that Javier give me
copies of all the paperwork and he complied.
Next time a more mature student should handle it, I originally with held
volunteering just to see the reaction of my comrades. Tanya and Javier repeatedly
speak of doing their reports on Cambodia once they get back home and talk of
using the Internet. DOUBLE DOH! I thought being a graduate student meant daily
commitment… Well I am off to the RUPP library soon. I have a meeting with the
Sociology club today, last time we met we went over their “manifesto”. After a
discussion , I realized it is just a club charter for a student group. My translation
after quizzing them is very different in tone. They try hard but are too dramatic as
compared to efficient and functional.

Last day of class I asked my students to define “life” in one word, and they
responded:
struggle- 4
family- 3
happy/happiness- 8
quiet- 2
good- 2
love- 3
confidence- 1
problem-2
friendly- 1
hope/hopeful- 4
trying- 8
drama- 1
biography- 1
interesting- 1
boring- 1
success- 1
time- 1
What a bunch huh?

5:00PM
I am happy all the time and I don’t know why.
Today a sadness came over me, everything seems so lost… spent the afternoon
at RUPP tidying up things and meeting with the Sociology Club assisting them in
grammar. Funny how the document is all definitions and I replace large clauses
with one word. Heading out for Mexican food with my friend Gery just to see a
different part of the city. Thinking about Siem Reap but vacillating. What will
happen to all my friends who remain here? They are so simple and open even
though they exist in such a hard place. I go back to the melting pot of souls with a
“high” standard of living. OK- I hope this shadow of thought leaves me soon.

SATURDAY 4th August – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
10:00AM
Dancing in the rain, Sick- maybe yes, maybe no
Coming back from RUPP got hit a summer storm (sideways rain) the one
time I forgot my raincoat. Soaked and later came down with a mild cold. OK- off to
breakfast…
6:35PM
Well I am officially sick, just a mild cold. A 3 mile
motorbike ride in downpour will do it. Was given a
Khmer medical treatment. Using tiger balm and the
metal lid, my skin around my upper chest, upper
arms, and upper back were repetitively scrapped in
40 downward strokes causing blood to rise to the
skin. The tiger balm, then absorbs into the blood stream. I then put on a tee-
shirt, downed a hot lime juice tea, wrapped my head and neck in a krama, and

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

went to sleep. I am feeling well.
We tried to go out last night but the downpour and my illness canceled the
event. 4 of us, myself, Gery and two Khmer girls are going out to a restaurant
near the Tonle Sap and then to a Cambodian Dance Club with live music. The girls
went and are having their hair done and we will have a real double date. It is the
normal things in life here that are so pleasurable, not the tourist traps. Gery has
been a champion of a good friend. He told me today they will have shuttle buses
going out to the trials. It is a special compound out towards the airport. He rides
in an armored vehicle to work and does 12 hours shifts. I said 8 of duty and 4 of
paperwork. He laughed and said in his Austrian accent, “How did you know this?”
Well police work is the same everywhere (and my father was a police detective).
Cham is not painting her restaurant until Monday and I will help. Monday
afternoon she is taking her employees to open savings accounts. She tries to help
them as much as she is able but it is funny how they only get into gear at work
when their cushy jobs are threatened. September 1st a law goes into effect,
motorcyclist needs a operator’s license and helmets- that will sure change this
place but how is unpredictable. Next they will stop people driving on the wrong
side of the road and down sidewalks. Heaven forbid anyone should even think
about safety here- it would be dangerous… I learned how to wear a krama today,
the traditional head scarf of the Khmer. There are supposedly 60 variations. Fun
to wear, lightweight, and is very comfortable.
7:30PM
I have eaten 7 papaya seeds as a weekly prevention against intestinal woes
(learned it from locals in Mexico many moons ago) and no problems. I eat more
local cuisine and shy away from cheese, sandwiches, and salads. I saw a woman
hacking open a hard green fruit on a door step leading to the street at a tourist
laden NGO hangout restaurant. Basic hygiene is taking a back seat to necessity.
OK some topics I missed:
motor banking- Cham at Near and Far restaurant gives 10 bucks a day to a old
Chinese woman that swings by on a scooter. They pool money and are
guaranteed a return of around %5. The money gets loaned to local expanding

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

businesses that just seem to avoid banks, either to to no credit or lack of faith.
Quite ingenious, face to face and based on trust.
$200 accident or why don’t I drive? Any accident will be a foreigner’s fault.
Kathy from the US embassy told me of a 2 car wreck where the Cambodian was at
fault. His yelling and crowd caused the female tourist to cry and surrender $200.
As she was driving away after the incident, a man who as did many who
witnessed the accident. Got her money back from the man, he only had to save
face and really did not want the money. After she left, the crowd pressured hi to
do the right things. So faced with such a complexity- foreigners driving face an
unknown…
black pepper- the black pepper here is unreal. I detest it in the states but love it
here.
compass- showed my students a compass and out of 56 only one had any idea
what it was. Does Cambodia need geography skills?
pool tables- every shack has one from Phnom Penh to the beach. The Khmer
girls are dangerously good players…
rats- see them running the street in early evening and at night.
cats- feral to a point yet respected and wander everywhere.
dogs- eat handouts, mate in the restaurants under the table (only during busy
lunch hour), and are mangy.
Ahda’s child- The abducted daughter came back from her ex-husband in
Battambong. She is fairly bilingual for 2 year old, loves to eat cooked insects
sometimes will just pee while standing in the middle of the restaurant.
rain and ponchos- want it to rain? Forget your poncho. Passengers on motos
duck under the drivers poncho. If drivers have no poncho, the passengers hold a
sheet of plastic up and over over the motorbike driver, the wind holds it up
keeping rain off the passengers too. Hilarious to see, even stranger to have to do!

Monday 6th August – Phnom Penh Diary 2007
4:00AM
No clever words, One week to go in a city that always sleeps, Yes yes or Yes no?
The scars covering people here never cease to amaze me, every one has a
Cambodia 2007 54
story, but mostly involve motor bikes. Sometimes when I see the amateur
medical treatment administered to fairly simple injuries or problems, I understand
people’s fear of doctors here. The treatment I was given for my summer cold was
right out of the Dark Ages. If I thought geography was needed skill, the concept of
micro-organisms would cause such a shock to people here, they would be in total
denial. Again I am up early and with limited resources can only type. It is hard to
explain daily existence here, the fears, mysteries, and solutions. It seems all
education and personal development stops after reaching puberty, everyone is
secure in what they know to be true or traditionally accept. East meets West in a
strange fashion, both are correct in their separate worlds, both look at each other
as exotic, acceptance is toleration. The experiment of sending us here can be
summed up as one great lesson- you are on your own here. Not in an abandoned
state but what contacts you have, cash resources, and ability to adapt to a city
that likes to sleep really determines what you get done. On a grand scale how
things are done in the West is a poor yardstick for success, the individual
triumphs on a one on one basis here seem the only measure of real success.
YES YES or YES NO, are the key question words when dealing with
Cambodians who have not mastered English. Javier seems to have come up with
the phrase in dealing with his students’ responses. Yes does not mean affirmative
to the information received by the listener, only confirmation that the words were
heard. To get a response one needs to probe with YES YES or YES NO. Yes I heard
AND yes is the answer or Yes I heard NO is the answer. It is a fun way to deal with
it, otherwise it could easily drive one bonkers.
Seems my phone does not ring even though I have given out the number to
many professional contacts. It has however helped in social contacts in meetings
friends for events. Javier travels in his free time here and hangs out with white
Western college girls, Tanya after Aleksey split must be really frustrated. She left
for Singapore a few days ago and right before she left we had our classic
conversation. She had called the day before she left and wanted to have a drink,
a sort of sending off party for herself. Her alcohol consumption, level of
frequency, and time parameters for having a cocktail exceed my own. I did not

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

agree to going for a drink in the late afternoon, too early, as I stated I had
possible alternative plans and probably would not go. She may not have heard me
as she was back to her speaking in long paragraphs repeating the same story for
about the third time. When she called the next day, she continued on the
paragraph length style conversation which seems to rebuff any input or response
from the listener. When we got around to her and her want for drink, she said it
was time for our going for a drink. I responded that I had not agreed and within a
few seconds she said OK bye and hung up. It’s all about her and I try to avoid
social contact as the insult she disguises as her humor that I do not understand
could easily take me to a boiling point. Such is life.

Switching topics, jewelry, land or a pocketful of cash is a form of savings
here. Seems gold is worn only in hopes of having money in the future. Great
concept or is it lack of alternatives that continue the practice. Well after almost an
hour , I will try and return to sleep. Friday night Gery and I went out on a double
date with two Khmer girls (and yes there was a chaperon). They are shy, vibrant,
and fun. Dinner was along the Quay (pronounced “key”) near the Tonle Sap. After
we went to see a Khmer band and though the music was modern, amount of
disco lights overkill, the dancing was a hybrid of modern Western and traditional
Khmer movements. Very fun, warm beer was brought to the table in liter bottles.
Your glass was filled by the waiter, then a girl with a ice bucket came by dropping
ice cubes in. When you finished a bottle, they came back to open another. I was
still ill and had only two glasses. With the amount of ice in the glass it was not
much. The girls danced and we remained seated. It was fairly large sized venue
and being the only white people, we sat down and stayed well behaved. It was
Saturday night out for the locals, I did not want to intrude on their fun by being a
sore thumb.

Learning Khmer is not so difficult, it is learning to discern the sounds that is
a challenge. Many words that sound English are not and I am amazed that what
moto drivers were saying means something completely different than what I
believed it to be. When they shouted “Moto”, my response of “Atay agoon” (no
thanks) was matched with “dar-ling”. Odd? Well “dear-ling” means to go for a

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

stroll. “Here I thought they were all talking sweet (wink). Time to relax and wait
for the rhythm of the city to awake.
8:00AM
Slept another 4 hours. Just heard a siren, maybe an ambulance going by in
the land of today. Thinking much about the debriefing we will have when we get
back. When the 1st wave of Texas State professors and faculty came here I am
sure they did not see 90% of what we have. Hopefully we can have an important
influence in discovering what needs to be accomplished here in the future and
what should be avoided. If I repeat this once, I will repeat it again- having too
much free time here is negatively productive. Sure you can explore but without
meaningful purpose, one might as well go to Disneyland. Time is needed to adjust
but certain guidelines and demands should be made on the students or at
minimum meetings a to get the ball rolling. If I had not had the travel experience
and ability to explore like I do (or think I do), this place could easily upset a
Westerner. Little positive things need to be in place rather than unexpected
adventures that tax the soul and wear you out physically. The most upsetting
thing is the lack of information (useful in daily functions) and communication from
the Cambodia side, now that I see life here, it can be expected. I requested
weekly meetings 3 times and Tanya and Javier were pretty much ignored the
request. I don’t want to leave here but since my pretrip plans were more of a
gamble, it is definitely time to head home. Yes, everything will have changed yet
stayed the same.

Tuesday 7th August Phnom Penh Diary 2007
8:00AM
If you visit an Internet café without a list of “to dos”, you can easily forget
important items while waiting and watching for the screen to appear. I did ask
Tanya for addresses, lists of places, and office hours she visited or at least a
business card in regards to Cambodian resources. She has responded with
nothing other than you know it’s over there by such and such…

Friday 10th August Phnom Penh Diary 2007
3:45PM

A bit melancholy, did some last minute shopping, small Cambodian flag, a few of
the infamous “Danger Land mines” T-shirts, and last look at trinkets. My days here
are closing fast. Gery, my Austrian friend , bought a motorcycle. It as bad tires
and I feel sorry for him when he tries to get new ones put on. If I had time I and
tools I could do it for him. I just might but the lack of tools is a barrier. Well am I
ready to come home, well maybe. The amount of emails and pace will be a
challenge. My priorities hopefully will shift for the better, as I need to work and
save up for graduate school. Life on credit is not in my vocabulary.
In Siem Reap my friend Kevin finally found a a battery for a friend’s
motorcycle A rare one for these parts). The shop there had it sent up from Phnom
Penh, then destroyed it. The added too little acid then overcharged it. Lesson,
only drive vehicles the locals do, the 1992 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 is probably the
only one in the country and must be a PIA to have worked on. There are no spare
parts (new) except for the typical array of scooter tune-up and maintenance parts
for popular brands. In the USA you can get a piston from Germany overnight from
BMW, here you get a blank stare. Previously when I searched in PP for a battery
for Kevin, I waited for 30 minutes and intensely perspired while they searched in
the back with flashlights. Turning on the lights would cost money. Inventory
controls are nonexistence, stacking stuff up to the ceiling is the norm. OK, maybe
we will go out for a nice quiet meal.
7:10PM
This place is very unique and yes, it is time to leave. Hopefully if I return I
will have less free time and more work or academic activities to keep me
occupied. Its getting old here fast and the thought of coming home early has
crossed my mind (odd). Maybe a night of watching TV alone is in order…

Sunday 12th AUGUST Phnom Penh Diary 2007
6:00PM
“No western logic applies here”, said Gery. He says spent almost half his adult life
in 3rd world countries providing security (mostly for Saudi Princes and the stories
are very incredible) and has seen much. He is a good friend. Today he told me the
chief judge in charge of prosecution was promoted which will change or actually

Phnom Penh Diary 2007

delay the Khmer Rouge Trials due to everyone getting bumped up a level behind
him. He also said that his boss will soon go after and arrest the former king- I am
sure glad we are leaving soon. He will probably be here more than 5 years
and is soon renting the space above Cham’s restaurant as an apartment. Looks
like I will have a place to stay for a long time if I return. Gery’s friend from Vienna
will arrive tonight and we will go out for the evening.

The Departure Day
Gery hopes I will return to help him build a boat and sail up the Mekong. Cham
told me how much I would miss all of them, she is right. My friends on the street
and at the hotel were all smiles and wished us good luck. At the airport and while
seated on the plane I sent my last batch of SMS text message via my Cambodian
SIM card to my friends. How much will change here before I return is a mystery.
Why I am leaving is even more confusing.

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