Misadventures in Mexico and Belize

MISADVENTURES IN MEXICO and BELIZE

MISADVENTURES IN MEXICO BELIZE. A true story- a travel journal from 1991. Two Texans and one Chevy four wheel drive truck cross the Rio Grande River, Long before GPSs, smartphones,and the free WiFi-, an adventurer just needed a whole lotta cajones to traverse mountains, jungles, & beaches south of the border. Living at times off the land, at other just day dreaming in a hammock.

View all the photographs online.

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Texas – Pre-journey Prep & Border Crossing
Getting ready for the Journey – Vamos a Mexico!

February 19th, 1991

Chilly, partly cloudy day in Austin, Texas. I always talked about the weather, it sets my moods.
Received my typhoid vaccination + I’ve all the symptoms. Taking aspirin as the “doctors”
recommended. Visit to Austin Diagnostic Clinic for immunizations $45.00US + $8.00 for a typhoid
shot. Obtained malaria prescription for a 10 week journey @ $13.00US. I still haven’t finished our
itinerary because of uncertainty of when I return to work. Technically I am set to go now but “M-day”
isn’t until 4 March 91. We or our sources say Pemex gas 95cents/gallon figuring 750 pesos per liter and
2,985 pesos per dollar. I believe our average cost per mile will be @ 10 cents (US). I hope to awake
tomorrow with no more side effects from the typhoid shot. A few minor details + reviews need to be
done to insure “M-day” a.ka. Mexico Day! I’ve read all the books, prepared my vehicle + I’m all set to
be put to the test of adaptability. Destiny is mine, more than a vacation, the trip will bring out the best in
me + some of the worst. Vamos a Mexico!

March 2nd, 1991

All vaccinations complete, got polio & glamuglobin last Monday. Started malaria pills on Monday 25th
Feb. Truck is packed, gas tanks full + ready to roll. Gas today $,92 9/10 /gallon. I hope all the
preparations meet all the challenges. Itinerary completed today March 6th til May 1st 8 weeks total
That’s all for now.

March 6th, 1991

Relaxing at Falcon St. Park on Rio Grande. $8 camping with sun shelter, table, grill . $6 + per vehicle
$2. Large lake at the border separates Mexico + USA. Large dam is a also a bridge where we will cross
a 6:00AM tomorrow. Today temp. 106F in the shade. The gasoline in my tanks was boiling today. Truck
did fine, about to check the fluids. As time goes on our load will lighten a bit. Mark sick this morning,
“turistas de queso”, but he fine now. Miles traveled today 320.

Calculation

15mpg = 3.871 miles per liter
14mpg = 3.613 mpl
13mpg = 3.355 mpl
12mpg = 3.01 mpl
11mpg = 2.84 mpl

March 7th, 1991

Set off at 8:30AM, nice facilities at the state park. Crossed border at Falcon State Dam, real easy, 10
minutes, no truck inspection. 15 miles in at a checkpoint inland I had to show my papers then step out
of the truck + push a button. There was a green light and a red light. we got the green light so no search.
No entiendo. Sold my cooler for 12k pesos traded traded some funky tools for 4k pesos of NOVA
gasoline. Stopped in Matehuala for a trailer park but it was $14USA. Demasiado mucho. Now just
finished a plate of goat with red sauce + some guacamole at the Chovera restaurant. on the south side of
Matehuala, of MEX 57 beer 2.2k pesos dinner 21k pesos. Going to camp off road tonight south of
Matehuala. 6:00PM

Crossing the Central Highlands

8 Marzo 91 Gunajuanto 2:30pm

Siesta time. IN a small plaza outside “el centro mercado”. Had lunch at a typical market, shrimp + egg
cakes in a tomato, nopalito, and potato caldo. A plate of tortillas and a beer came out to 9,000 pesos
~$3.00US. Mark is sleeping’ on a bench + I can’t walk. Not a big meal…

… but with all those frijoles, a real stomach buster. We’ve been averaging 350 miles per day + in 2 days
we should see the Pacific. Last two days were over 105F + I had to drive heater on full blast (with the
windows down of course) to keep the motor + especially the transmission cool. The truck almost
flawless in it’s performance. All our gringo gas is gone + we’re running on 81 octane leaded 92 cents a
gallon Pemex Nova. This morning I had my 1st gordita for breakfast at a Pemex station just south of
San Luis Potosi. 2nd full day in Mexico + no illness. It’s easier to cook on a day where we don’t travel
so much. Tonight we are going to try an add 1100 miles south. We’ll just camp somewhere in the
mountains. We left at 6:30AM this morning. When we went to sleep it was around 100F + awoke to
40F. Made me quite delirious. Not a cloud in the sky for 3 days. Only 53 days until we return to Austin.
So far this trip has been well prepared for + executed but we are extremely relaxed. I can’t believe I’m in
a foreign land. So far no hassles from any cops, well almost…

…at a railroad crossing my carburetor overflowed + stalled with a federale behind me. I tried to wave
him on but he gave me a strange look but the truck started + I limped her off the highway. Speaking of
highway, Route MEX 57, every 10 miles, the surface or width change drastically. One MEX 110 after a
long fast run to Dolores Highway at 5,500 feet elevation, we twisted + turned + climbed to 9,150 feet
then over a ridge + down to Guanojuanto at about 6,100 feet. The air here is clear, most cities the air
pollution was extremely thick. Tomorrow we’re going to check out some caves + maybe make it to the
ocean.

9 marzo 1991

In Tasco at about 5,500 feet up + real sunny + hot. Last night we camped at 9,400 feet in a rocky trail
off MEX 55. MEX 55 is a crazy road twit _ turns at the beginning then flat around Tepucola then
insanely mountainous nearing MEX 95. I froze last night, blanket, poncho, 1 scarf _ 1 sweatshirt was
not enough. In the day yesterday it was around 100F then dropped to under 40F after sundown, all in
about 3 hours.

It very dry here, all crop cut down, all farm animals skinny. It that time of the year when they scorch the
fields + with all the factories a lot of pollution about. Thank God we by-passed D.F. I don’t think we’ll
make it to the beaches today. Going off the beaten path to some caves off Juxtahuaca, Guerero. About to
eat some enchiladas de pollo con salsa verde. Enjoying Superior cerveza tambien.
And how could I forget the carburetor repairs this morning! Secondary fuel bowl float was misaligned +
an 0-ring on…

…fuel line dripping. The exact same problem last time, only now I have the right parts to do it, andale!
The water tank I installed works great, the heat from the exhaust heats the tank + after a long, hot hard
drive, presto hard a hot shower! Standing naked in a bucket at 9,000 feet in the mountains in 50F
weather after 8 hours of hellacious drivin’ was absolutely lifting to the human spirit.
Wandering the Pacific Coast

Yo dude! Missed an entry yesterday. Finally at the Pacific Ocean. At a trailer park west of town. $6.00
night (~20,000 pesos) without electricity ($4 more) but showers, laundry facilities (por man=by hand) +
toilets. Mark wants to head to more isolated areas but I think we need to break the chain of traveling.
Heard there were more highway robberies on MEX 200 between Acapulco and P. Escondido. We
missed the campsite so we drove to about 50km north of P.E + literally passed out on the side of the
road. I’m goin’ to stop to light my kerosene lantern. “un raton”= a rat ,Mex. expression for “one
moment”.

I watched a perfect sunset + I hope each nite ends with such tranquility. Went for a snorkel dive, only 25
min. My skin not tan yet. Saw an eel, a few fish, + lots of empty oyster shells. In the next week I hope
to pull a few oysters from the ocean. Met some east Texans, Germans, + Canadians at the trailer park
here. All the travelers seem friendly, coastal Mexicans seem bitter + stoned, the men that is. It is fun to
talk to the children + make them smile.Not a mosquito bite so far, a few close calls tough. Whoops,
need to take my malaria tablets. No matter how fast you wash those things down,they’re god awful
tasting. Brought an outrageously good 1st aid kit, lots of prescription stuff too! Only a few slight cuts +
burns on both of us but we’re ready for almost anything. Using citronella mixed with with almond oil
for a repellent but in the jungle rain forest + Yucatan I will need the industrial strength stuff.
Last 5 days on the road had everything in the Mexican world running in front of us. At least 2 bicyclists,
mother + child, 100 burros, 500 cows, a gross of goats, 1 beehive, 10,000 potholes, + 50 topes. Not bad
for 5 days! My Spanish is improving some situations, I’d be better off with sign language. After the long
drive I’ll have more time to study The truck- I’ll refer to it as the K10- the left side exhaust pipe cracked
yesterday. I used a Chef Boyardee ravioli can + 2 hose clamps…

It should last the trip. I added 8oz. of anti-freeze, clean off the motor,+ added some dry gas to both
tanks, that’s it so far. Every 2k miles I will change the oil. Spent the day organizing the K-10 gettin’ rid
of 3 plastic egg containers + cooler. Goin’ to trade them at P.E. market tomorrow. Yesterday I went in
my 1st real cave system. What beautiful Olmec skeletons, 2,000 year old crystal calcium deposit, under
water lake, of course we swam in it. Crawled through many small passages. The trip about 2 or 3 hours,
cave hot + humid, into the the earth about 2km. Our guide, Sergio, spoke Spanish. Excellent guy, knew
everything about the caves, fascinating descriptions. A real good person. So much has happened. Got a
late start yesterday + drove til midnight so I will miss a few things here + there. Manana dude!

12 marzo 91 – martes 9:00am

Awoke around 7:00am, mark went off birding or bird watching. Jacked up the truck and took off the left
front wheel to tighten the disc brake pad. It’s been squealing’ down those mountain slope. We’re are
relaxed enough to head to Puerto Angel. Goin’ to a vegetarian restaurant today here in P.E. at Hotel
Sante Fe. K-10 is fueled +full of water +ready to roll. Air in the tires OK after 1,500 miles but the right
side tires were down 1psi. Drove along beach Zicatela, west coast’s best surfing in summer, now just
gentle 6 ft. waves. At the Hotel Sante Fe for a veggie lunch, mark is body surfin’. I am goin’ to avoid
morning beach sun until I’m tanned. The back of my neck got a little pink in 25 minutes of snorkeling
yesterday. It’s had hair covering it for the past decade. Sure glad I cut it.

Today we will hit a secluded beach. Late this afternoon I’ll try my luck at fishin’ or spearing’ or at least snorkel to find an area with
some seafood. The tarp setup seems to work OK. If gail force winds come it’ll take lots of rope + luck to
keep it from flyin’ away.It doesn’t seem like we left Texas. My Spanish comes + goes, well only 7 more
weeks at practice! This restaurant overlooks the beach + it has a coolin’ breeze. All after 1,500 miles of
drivin’. I am anxious to change the K-10’s motor oil + clean her up. She’s pulled through like a
thoroughbred that she is.

~5:00pm

All I can say is fuck Puerto Angel. One of our guides said it was funky around the edges, shit it was
funky to the core. Nasty road to get there wasn’t worth it. But we found somewhere “muy fantastico”
Playa Chahue, a perfect bay with small cliffs or should I say rocky edges around, a white, thick sand
beach about 3/4 mile long _ 250 ft. wide. The waves small but current turbulent. There’s a trailer park
where everyone ignored me so we just 4-wheeled up to the beach between a restaurant + the trailer
park/ Real soft sand, almost sank but made it up the small incline to paradise.

13 marzo 91 miercoles

Relaxation, nice windy, unpopulated beach, pounded a few beers with 4 ecologists whoa re in charge of
18,000 hectares of a natural preserve in the area. Ignacio, Javier,
Alejandro + “?” Last night tried to spear fish in the waves, non to be seen except 100 ft. offshore. To far
for me at nite with strong currents.Tried fishin’ off rocks at west end of cove. Caught crabs with a gig +
tore them open for bait. Only a few tiny fisno bites + too windy +wavey. I’ll try the east cove this
afternoon. Still staying’ out of the sun between 10am + 2pm like a good gringo should. I’m goin’ in town
for fruit + veggies soon. Need a hat, probably in Tuxla at the indian markets. Almost speared an octopus
between the rocks. I got a good solid hit, but it had a grip on the rocks + pulled thru the the crevice to
safety, though probably fatally wounded. We filled up with lots of water in P. Escovedo. I used iodine
for drinkin’ H2O ( 6 gallons) + chlorine in the wash water tank (~14 gallons).

1:30PM

Doin’ nothin’, relaxing, reading, took a 30 minute swi, a little body surfin’. Water strong but not with
grand waves, 3 footers max. Strong wind today. Tarp working’ but flappin’. Still haven’t gone in for
supplies. maybe maňana!

14 marzo 91 jueves – 7:00am

Last night wonderful, Mark + I sat around with Ignacio, a biologist working on the natural preserve for
FONATUR. he told us all the stories of development here, its tragedies + benefits. This I will not go
into detail now. Finally a few insects last night, less wind brought out the little devils. Maybe one or two
bites + a good night of sleep. Went into Sanat Cruceta yesterday for fruit, veggies, + tortillas. After last
night’s meal, mark declared me No.1 Chief Chef. We had h\huachinango a la Veracruzano, white rice,
jicama with lime + chile + my new creation- Rum Vanilla Mango Blue Corn “Huatulco Bay” Pudding.
It looks like one meal a day around 5:00PM. Just to hot to eat in the day. Last 2 days mark has spear
gunned 2 red snapper. I’m going to build a “Hawaiin Sling”. Well its wash up time.

8:00AM

Bonjour, 3 cups of real coffee with condensed milk. A few other campers are sleeping’ on the beach.
They’ve just awoken, 2 girls, 1 dud + a dog. Senor Black is now enroute to invite the two hairy under
armed girls for “cafe”. It looks like a NO! Not even a conversation. Well what did they say? It’s YES!

2:30PM

An afternoon of reading’ + studying’ + thinkin’. Having a lunch of warm cokes, day old tortillas +
banana. One meal, one big big meal a day should hold us over. Mark is off to the next bay to the south
to get a fish. I’m headin’ in to the market cheese, Oaxaca Style! Tonite fish, quesadillas + guacamole on
tostados + sopa de ajo. Today I developed a device to shoot sharpened ski poles with a surgical piece of
rubber. I’ll use it to get fish + iguanas + maybe octopus.

6:20PM

Just finished dinner + jumped in the Pacific to rinse off. Listenin’ to the shortwave, BBC to be exact.
Dinner consisted of a 8lb. 2 ft. amber jack. I cooked it a Vera Cruz style sauce, quesadillas with Oaxaca
cheese , serranos, onions, + avocado! A pair of Dos Equis + boom! Satisfaction. My skin is tan on my
arms, light red on my legs + waist. I’ll look- light brown torso. I am staying’ out of the sun 10am -> 2pm

it’s working’. Plenty of sun is reflecting off the sand + surf. Saw Ignacio in town + Alejandro, met
there friend Guillermo. Tomorrow we’re headed to Playa Colorado. We’ ll tear down early, take 30 cent
showers down the block, fill up our water tanks + gas tanks, maybe some kerosene + have lunch with
Ignacio at 12:30pm. Our food staples are keepin’ well hung in the air + shade. The tortillas last about 20
hours max. in these conditions so I dry them by the sun on the dash on napkins in 2 hours. The Oaxaca
cheese is like mozzarella and fabulous! Well I think I’ll go have
a beer- 2,500 pesos a Dos Equis (about 65 cents).

15 marzo 91 – viernes 9:00am

Spent 2 hours with the family at the next door “Restaurant Bety”. They serve soda, beer, cigs, + seafood.
Cooked on an adobe stove + wood fired. They’ve a private well, which I traded 1/2 amber jack Mark
caught yesterday for a bucket of well water to do dishes. At 11am we’ll go to take 30 cent showers +
tank up. Mark is snorkeling at Playa Tongalunda near all the big hotels 2 or 3 coves to the east. Last nite
we (us + the family)- Silvia 15, Margarita 14, + 4 or 8, traded words. An informal language class.
They’re typical Oaxaquenoes, show a little curiosity but act a little snotty. I ‘ll probably send them some
Spanish-English (n<B 26 years later I never did…) Most of the children want to learn English. I’ve
packed the truck + have 1 1/2 hours before Mark returns. We’ll I’m off to the local PEMEX para NOVA
gasolina con plomo.

8:00PM

At Playa Colorado. Took an easy drive goin’ 35mph. No sense in goin’ fast + losin’ money.I calculated
Playa Colorado to be 5 miles east of Santiago Astata, it was! Someone cut the sign down so we
continued 3 miles down the road to survey. We saw the lagoon described in the guide book, so we U-
turned around + went down the road. We ran into 7 people (No habla Ingles= NHI). One man asked us
for a lug wrench to change a tire on a truck with a flat on the other side of the lagoon, about 3/4 mile
thru the woods + 4-wheeled across the edge of a soft silty marsh, The lagoon is filled with seawater then
closed. After the water is evaporated, the salt is bagged + collected. Well upon arrival, sat a small truck

10 dudes. I gave then a choice of vise grips or a small chisel They had already loosened 5 with vise
grips. He chiseled on the edge of the big bolt and in 2 minutes had it off! After some long farewell +
lots of stares at my truck we left + drove here. We’re at a place used for fiestas. It’s rundown + loaded
with stinging ants. I sprinkled kerosene in a big line to keep the general flow away from us + chile
powder under the area we hangout in. I put insect repellent on the truck axles in hopes they dont
discover our food supplies. 5 minutes after our arrival we spoke or Mark spoke + they OKed us using
the palapa for camping + didn’t tell us about the @#$%! ants. We’re goin’ to look for sea turtles on the
beach so I’ll write more later.

Nothin’ too excitin’ on the beach, hundreds of white semi-soft shelled crabs of all sizes scurrying
sideways or scadadaling into burrows. I took a few photos of them + a giant sea turtle shell we found on
the beach. Nothin’ on the beach tonight. I’ll retire now…

16 marzo 91 – sabado

Awoke at sunrise, goin’ to leave this place. Let the insects have it back. Mark off to spearfish with some
locals. I’m goin’ to relax + write + do a few things to the K-10. So Mark off w/ 3 vatos. A rat ate our
plantains last nite. I had it hangin’ but he bit it in the bed of the truck. Our lunch yesterday at the El
Hotel de Padrino (Godfather) was good, we had “Clayauda”. Almost a Mexican pizza. 2 hombres
invited us to their table. Of course they were drunk, especially the one was real stupid. As we finished
he offered some beers & we refused tremendously. He had the waitress bring 2 Coronas + i said “No la
quiero.” I refused it + stormed off. I paid the waitress on the way out started the K-10 + Mark came +
we went.

The dozen fried oysters + tomatoes I cooked yesterday were marvelous. I used peanut oil (USA),corn
meal, garnished w/ lime & habanero sauce. It was a good snack before relaxing’ that evenin’. The hour
walked down the beach knocked Mark out. He walked + snorkeled a lot yesterday. One of the 3 dogs
from yesterday has returned lookin’ for scraps. Dogs in Mexico all look a bit related. About 30 lbs.,
skinny, long pointed ears + slender tails. Definitely shy, probably from being mistreated + almost half-
starved. Just had a visit another local fisherman. We chatted, i gave him some granola + he asked for a t-
shirt. Everyone of the last 10 visitors asked for t-shirts. If I brought down a truck load of t-shirts +
cassettes, I could make any band “muy popular aqui”. These folks want a good taste of Western culture.
It was funny, the last hombre had no shirt on + a shaved head. Maybe thought I’ think he was shirtless +
in need. They must have a pretty shallow view of gringos. As we get into more remote areas my
machete is out from behind the seat + easily accessible. Last nite I sliced a few big crabs with some
chivalrous swings + fed their guts to the tiny crabs. A change of pace for the food chain. The Oaxaca
indians so far think we are from another planet, but that’s alright. They make interesting gists
themselves. We’ll it’s time for K-10 maintenance + check up + the dishes too from mornin’ coffee.

9:45AM

Just putting’ around. Moto OK, radiator down a 1/2″, nothin’ major. When we get into the highlands I
will probably trade off the rest of my odds and ends. Good ole mark will trade ’em too! He offered to by
me a Coke yesterday then grabbed some of my stuff to trade, just a few plastic egg cartons but hey, it’s
the principal. No biggey! I think I prefer the Yucatan beaches. Here on the West coast just cactus + 10 to
20 ft. tall trees. Most coconut palms are in private groves + here most wild palms are used for oil +
away from the beaches. I’ve I’ve a feelin’ Mark should return with some good eatin’ in about an hour or
so I’m goin’ to pull the truck complete under the shade of the palapa, sit back + enjoy + study my
Spanish.

12:15PM

I had 3 more visitors, the local fishermen, or should I say fisherkids. 2 watched me change the oil &
filters (oil +gas). I’m doin’ this about every 2 thousand miles to be on the safe side. We’re coverin’ a lot
of turf this trip. I think the next one (trip) will be about 2 months also but just in the Yucatan area. West
coast alright but with the Yucatan, the roads are flat not curvy + mountainous, there’s coconut trees, blue
water, finer sand + the abundance of ancient ruins. At least I bummed a few cigarettes back from these
dudes after they drained me yesterday. I best plan out our next leg of the trip. By the time Mark returns
we won’t have much daylight for traveling.

6:45PM

The sun has just dipped in the hills here at Playa Azul near Salinas Cruz the big industrial petroleum
town. We left Playa Colorado after a quick supper. mark & 2 dudes were gone for 6 hours. They
returned with a 20 lbs. sack of mollusks + another shellfish I’ll call a troglodyte! I prepared an onion,
garlic, serrano pepper,rum, tomato, herb based bullion + then dumped them in for 5 minutes. Instant
“caldo” as the Mexicans call it, all in 20 minutes. We took them back to town ~ 6 miles Santiago Astata
then too the windy hilly MEXICO 200 South. We’re off the beach off the beach on a sandy + scrub bush
forest. There were restaurants at the main access that blocked our entrance to the beach. We always
camp next to or should I say hang our hammocks off the back of the truck. Once we found a clearing
and 1 tree, boom, instant campsite. I am goin’ to try + get 10 hours sleep tonight. It is easy to do here.
We’ll leave about 6AM for Agua Cascadero , the Sunidero Canyon, & visit to the Tuxla Gutierez Zoo,
then camp west of there. By the way “Caldo” I prepared was eaten by our 2 Mexican friends + they said
it was fabuloso. I gave them the rest of our rum mixed with cane sugar + lime juice so with full bellies +
brains we left on a good note. The K-10 is much happier with her oil changed. Soon we will be
climbing back into the highlands + to some good Mayan ruins. I get wait to get to Agua Azul. I hope we
can continue are luck on such a incredibly successful journey. We’re both in good health, our diet has
been mostly Mexican so far, at least 90%. Mark is a little sunburn + cut up + insect bitten. My cuts have
healed + my insect bites have been few. Other than the ants, it’s a breezy + tranquil nite. Perfect for a
deep sleep. Buenos noches.

Back Into The Hills
17 marzo 91 domingo

In San Cristobal delas Casas. I’ll write more about the long journey tomorrow. We’re at 7,000 ft. tonight

it’ll be cold.

18 marzo 91 lunes 7:00PM

Well it’s the evening, official malaria pill day, yuck! Spent the day in the city. It’s a 10 minute walk west
of here the San Nicolas Trailer Park. It’s 5,000 pesos a person ($1.64US) a day. It has showers, toilets, +
primitive cement wash tubs to scrub clothes clean. Well I did laundry today, sent 10 postcards, +
checked out the indian woven goods market + handicrafts, + the huge food market. I didn’t buy anything
from the handicrafts market, I’ll sleep on it + look tomorrow. At the food market I searched for white
gas + kerosene. It was expensive. An old woman in a hidden dark corner had it. White gas $8/gallon
($3/gallon in the US) + kerosene at $2/gallon ($4 in the US) Later on my second trip to town I found it
much closer + 1/2 the price. At 38 Avenue Jaurez Benito white gas 14,000 pesos/gallon + a bike shop at
Francis De Leon for 750 pesos/litro, 1/2 the walk + 1/2 the price.I’ll go tomorrow morning. I found a
fuse holder to replace the one that broke on the transmission temperature gauge. That gauge has been
extremely important climbing the mountains with all this gas + water + extra provisions. The
transmission gets hot enough to fail.

To cool the transmission + the motor I have to run the healter full blast. Imagine goin’ 20MPH up a hill
in 100F temperature on a windy, death defying roads with the heater up. Nice huh? But it works. The 50
mangos we bought yesterday are out staple diet. I had a small daily special at Normita’s in town, $3.35
(10k pesos) soup rice, tortillas + chile rellenos. A good home cooked meal. Before the meal I bought
some good famous Chiapas coffee. A light roast + full flavor at 8 thousand pesos a kilo ($1.25/1b). And
how could I forget last night. About 10 dogs barked continuously all night, a few roosters + at dawn the
dew was incredible + the bells in the church started ringing’. Some how I got to sleep last night.
In a few minutes I’ll put up the tarp. The heavy layer of icy dew was unexpected but at 7,000 ft. I should
have known. Our new friend from Bielefeld, Germany- Marcus is goin’ to stop by soon with a few
beers. He’s traveling’ alone in a VW bus. He speaks German (obviously), English + Spanish. He went to
high school in the U.K. on a exchange program + is easy to talk to. We all went to town together but
split up after 30 minutes. And of course on our side trip to P.N. Aguacero the exhaust cracked again. I
fixed it with a condensed milk can + is good as new. The waterfall at Aquacero was fine. It took 115
steps to descend into the canyon + of course 115 out. It was Sunday + and a lot of families + kids were
hangin’ out eatin’, drinkin’ and splashing in the H2O. We stopped in Tuxtla for dinner. Enchilada de
pollo con mole + papas fritas with fresh lime juice. Mark had a nice comida corrida. A cold beer + off
we went until we arrived here. We’re goin’ to stay tomorrow + leave Wednesday to go stay at P.N.
Lagenes de Nortebello. OK Goodnite! Ciao!

19 marzo 91 martes 7:45AM

Good Day! The sun is up + it’s not even 8AM + all the little morning chores are complete. I awoke half
frozen just before sun up. Breakfast consisted of hot amaranth cereal with cane sugar + brewer’s yeast,
Chiapa’s coffee with chocolate + cinnamon + some Mexican radio blastin’, dog barkin’, rooster a
crowin’, firecrackers boomin’, + church bell a ringing’ at 6:00AM. Last nite marcus brought over a 1/2
dozen beers _ we sat + listened to the BBC on shortwave. Yesterday afternoon the trailer park filled up
with vehicles from Nevada, Holland, Ecuador, New York + a van load of Scotts. The Scottish set up 6
green tents in a row on the other side of the camp. You’d think a bunch of leprechauns arrived. I put in
the new fuse holder tis morning. All the potholes + topes have caused minor cracks.. So far all is well,
my greatest fear + occasional nightmare is the truck failing. I’ve prepared for most situations + hope for
the best. Well I’m off to obtain more precious fuels to warm our bodies.

21 marzo 91 – jueves

Havin’ coffee + toast w/ Mexican marmalade w/ Dan from British Columbia + our friend Marcus from
Germany (whom we met in San Cristobal) We’re at Agua Azul, we blew off P.N. Lagunas de
Nortebello. I’ll try to summarize the last two days. Tuesday Marcus + I went into San Cristobal together.
Mark + I had a healthy hot amaranth cereal, mango, biscuits + coffee. After MArcus + I went to walk
about town, then went for some salads, which we were in dire need of of. We went to the indian
handicraft market. We spent 3 hours shopping’ slowly _ bartering like hell. I bought a bag, 2 shawls,
cloth belt, small pouch,+ a tumpline strap. We had a great time! We met a Pakistani girl from Muich.
We went for a few beers + at the elevation of 7,000 ft. 3 beers + your relaxed. Afterwards walking’
acroos the town square a band was playing’. We sat + grooved for 3 songs the went to Normitas
restaurant at Flores + Domingo. We ate sopes, tortas, papas fritas + 2 orders of fondue, one with chorizo
_ the other with strips of jalapeno (also called rajas). The girl’s name was Natasha. After all this we
returned to the trailer park. Later Natasha stopped by with Richard an old hippie from Northern
California traveling’ on his motorcycle. We sat around drank beers + listened to the radio. Natasha
brought some melon + papaya to eat. Later we learned of a small fireplace in the community kitchen.
We went in + found a bottle of mezcal + a box of cookies some campers had left. Of course we indulged
a little. Mark + I left + the others stayed a few more hours. We went to sleep at midnight + it was
another outrageously cold night. I slept in the K-10 + Mark on the back of it. It was too cold + damp
out. The nights in San Cristobal were freezin’ cold but the days sunny + full of fun + relaxation. The
food market huge + prices reasonable.

The next day, Wednesday, we broke camp, filled the water tanks + showered. We stopped in town for
food. Limes, garlic, onions, tortillas, chayote, tomatoes, condensed milk, caña, avacadoes, potatoes, +
eggs. 2 dozen egss for 4,000 pesos or US$1.65. I saw trucks on the side of the market where the vendors
bought in quantity to take to their stalls. This would be a great place to buy in bulk, they were so
incredibly cheap. We headed to here, Agua Azul + the fun began. It was a hilly drive for the 1st half to
Ocosinango, full of soft pines, small villages + farms……+ the solid was a deep earthen red like that in
the State of Georgia. We found a 6 ft. green snake killed on the road. It now decorates our truck hood to
keep evil spirits away from the motor (i.e. small children). Before we hit OC. we met a man + his son
w/ a 100 pound pi. For 5 thousand pesos (US$1.65) we took him 30 kilometers to the next village, after
that 2 minutes later, we met a man in a hurry to OC. + for another 5 thousand pesos we took him. We
then headed east of OC. to the ruins of Tonina. 11 kilometers down a nasty dirt + rock road. The site
was about 30% uncovered + over looked a large valley. It cost us US$1 US donation to visit. We
climbed to the top, offered a mango to the gods + ate it while resting’ high above the earth where kings
once ruled. This site was the last in the classic Mayan period. There were a few great stucco we
photographed.

As we returned to the parking local local rancher, who was the keeper of the site, he insisted on buying
my truck. He kept saying, “Vamos a comprar!” I gave him a grand tour of the truck + engine
compartment. He even sat behind the steering wheel. He asked the price, I said US$10,000 but refused
to sell. His son was just as intrigued + I gave him some sweets + we took off for to Agua Azul. Coming
out of the ruins was a man + his 3 sons + five 100 pound bags of fresh water snails. I took them down
the rough road 11 kilometers to OC. + charged them 4 thousand pesos. They gave us one pound of
snails also. As we we were headin’ to Agua Azul, we saw Marcus at a roadside restaurant eatin’
barbecued chicken. We slammed on the brakes + pulled in. It surprised him. Wed had 2 Pepsis, chatted

split. We arrived here at 5:00PM + Marcus 10 minutes later. Marcus + I went for 1/2 hour swim + cliff
diving (only 10 feet high) while mark watched everything. After I returned Mark went into the swift
coolin’ H2O of Agua Azul. We moved our truck next to Marcus + set up camp. Then on our fabulous
return to Agua Azul I cooked a feast by kerosene lantern light. Snails in garlic + habanero sauce,
creamed chayote papas onions + garlic, scrambled eggs with poblanos, jalapenos, + tomatoes + 1 pound
of tortillas + my soon to be famous Blue Corn Mango Pudding. mark did the dishes + we all passed out
from indulgence. Mark woke up early, about 6:00AM + I at 7:00AM. He’s off to bird watch. I made
coffee, woke up Marcus, who made the toast with marmalade, invited Dan over + we sat, woke up with
good Chiapas coffee + now we’re writing’ in our journals fueled by the caffeine. I’m goin’ to go shoot
some photos + study until 2:00PM. The whole late afternoon it’s Agua Azul time. Oh yeah, it’s the
birthday of Benito Juarez from the Mexican revolution against the French. A national holiday in Mexico
but there’s no celebration in Agua Azul.

22 marzo 91 – viernes – 9:45AM

Another sunny day, I saw 2 mosquitoes this mornin’, quite a rarity this trip. I had a good night’s sleep, as
usual I awake 2 or 3 times, look around + back into a deep sleep. Removed my 1st tick yesterday + i
had my 1st mosquito bite last night. Mark, Marcus, + I had mangos, melons, bananas, + toast together
this mornin’. We’re all takin’ it easy, just reading’ mendin’, writing. Washed the truck with river water +
checked all the lights. Todo esta bien. We played horseshoes last nite until dusk. We had to stop 1/2 way
through the 2nd game. I was mark + Dan from B.C. against Marcus + I. We won the 1st game after
being way behind. Today we’ll give it another shot. The Mexicans would walk by + watch from a
distance. They’re always slightly curious. The daily visits from the persistent fruit vendors goes on.
They just look at you sad + we ignore them or at least until our food stocks run low. Each nite 4 or 5
Mexicans come around with flashlights collecting the 5,000 pesos from each campsite. They’re loud and
friendly but tolerable. They stay about 3 to 5 minutes checkin’ out everything with their cheap
flashlights. Tomorrow we’ll head to Palenque + sock up before our trip to Bonampak + Chiapas.
Yesterday I climbed one of the waterfalls. It was tough this year. There’s more water flowin’ + the rock
formations ha

ve changed. I didn’t jump off the falls though 50 people watched +
waited.
1/2 hour just after sunset.
Sittin’ by the ruck + we’re relaxing’ after a tough round of horsehoes. The reflector I built for the
kerosene lantern enables me to write at night. Ah yes, dinner, chayote + potatoes in a celery seed, black
pepper white cream sauce, dumplings filled with diced poblano peppers in a tomato, onion, carrot curry
sauce + topped off with my “Playa Chahue Blue Corn mango Pudding.” Spent the day chillin’ out +
swimmin’. Marcus + I climbed 1/2 way up the waterfall today + a lot of divin’ off the 15 ft. cliffs into
perfect blue water. We checked out the small vendors + food stalls. Everything is double of normal city
market competitive prices. Later we met a guy, Jose, whose been comin’ here for 13 years. He showed
us the way to climb up to the top of the waterfall. It was an exciting + dangerous 80 ft. climb to the top.
As usually we’re healthy + enjoyin’ paradise. It’ll be hard to leave tomorrow.
Left Agua Azula 8:15AM. Picked up 2 Italians for 10,000 pesos. In Palenque. Fuel + H2O fill up + a
few provisions for the trip to Bonampak. It’s 7 hours + we would arrive at sundown. We were goin’ to
stop at Mayabel but have an early enough start to make it today or at least I hope.

24 marzo 91 – domingo – 8:30AM

We’ve just arrived in Bonampak with the 1/2 dozen horseflies that accompanied us on the 2 hour hike
down a jungle trail. It took us 5 hours from Palenque yesterday. We went down the jungle trail in the K-
10 about 2 kilometers. The road became fierce + sliding’ off + almost busting my steering, we called it
quits for the day. It is a raised road + thins out. It becomes a trail impassable by 4 wheel drive vehicle.
There were approximately 8 log bridges. After we parked yesterday we walked 1/2 hour down the trail
but found nothin’. We saw an elderly man who was extremely friendly + told us it was 6 kilometers to
Bonampak + that the K-10 (truck) would be safe day + night. We returned to the K-10, ate beans, eggs,

chiles, tortillas + tomato rice soup for dinner. We set up our mosquito nets on the back of the truck +
we’re to bed by 8:00PM. there was a 1/2 moon + lots of stars. A few large clouds dropped rain for 10
seconds + stopped. We awoke at 5:30AM and carried with us 1 quart H2O each in our small packs +
cameras. I’ve my machete strapped across my back to settle disputes of any sort. I’m sitting’ in front of a
pyramid about 150 feet in front beneath the shade of a 15 foot slab with carvings + glyphs on the south
side. I’ll rest 10 more minutes here + enjoy the vibes. On the road down here every 20 kilometers were
little restaurants. We stopped at 1 and I guzzled a Pepsi for 1,000 pesos.

9:27AM

Went into the three rooms of the Temple of the Inscriptions. Lots of fotos, I hope they turn out.
We are here on the banks of the Ucimicinta River at Frontera Corazol. The river is 750 feet
wide + quite swift. I can see 5 shacks on the Guatemalan side. We’re on a stone & sand beach about 2
miles long + 1/8 mile wide. We’re goin’ camp here. A Mexican just borrowed my jack . I insisted on
keeping his watch until he returned my jack. We’re at the site where the boats park. At Bonampak we
saw a truck stuck in an arroyo trying’ to make it back to the ruins. I’m glad we walked. White truck
stuck in an arroyo north of Bonampak, Mexico. Rule 73: Never let a teenager be your guide that has
never driven a vehicle. Most Mayans we saw had the same haircut, white tunic, & rubber boots. The
walk back was hot + extremely humid. Mark + I saw 4 toucans today, I saw a small deer and 50 lizards.
On our way here I picked 4 Mexicans for 6,000 pesos, sure helps on the fuel expenses. So we’ll hang out
here + take a boat tomorrow. Its 160,000 to 125,000 pesos to Yaxchilan so we’ll try to get filled boat to
split the expense. We took bathes in the river + the water was warm + refreshing’.

25 marzo 91 – 2:00PM

We just returned from Yaxchilan. The boat ride was 170,000 peso but our friends talked the man down
from 180,000. This is tourist season so the price is about double that in the off season. It took 45
minutes from Frontera Corazol + 1:15 hr:min to return. We were there 2 hours. The map showed a large
area but at least 2 of the temples were still mounds of earth yet to be excavated. We went with 4 people

split the cost. It was 28,0000 pesos a person. 3 girls form Distrito Federal (DF) Geronimo who is from
Chiapas. Mark + I split from the group. The trails went right through the jungles + up treacherous rocky
hillside. Most of the glyphs above in the doorways. The huge stellae have been removed + taken to
museums. As we left Yaxchilan, a boy sold our Mexican friends 2 catfish, one weighed 25 pounds + is
2.5 feet long, the other is 1 foot + 10 pounds. All this for 5,000 pesos, The restaurant up the hill from
the beach is cookin’ it for us. It’s too hot + our friends want to leave for Bonampak soon. If I cooked the
fish, it would take me 3 hours, my fryin’ pan is not large enough to cook 35 pounds of fish for 6 people.
We’re goin’ to stay tonight + leave tomorrow. The road back to Palenque is real ugly + the potholes (or
craters) are difficult to see. The road is a dull stone white + sun washes out all depth perception until it’s
too late + we’re floppin’ around like bacon on a skillet. So today we’ll feast, swim, + relax + of course
wash the truck + tighten the lug nuts on the wheels. Yesterday it was crowded here, but today much
more tranquil.

Yesterday we camped at the north end of the beach up along the bank next to 2 trees. Dinner consisted
of migas with cheese, pumpkin rice casserole, black beans, + cocoa atole. There were a few mosquitoes.
The hit me twice + a nice tick in my armpit that didn’t want to come off this morning! We took baths in
the river which I believe I mentioned + it was a good night sleeping under the stars with the rustle of the
river helpin’ us drift to sleep.

8:00PM

Built our first fire, Mark is roasted cacao + 2 ears of corn in the husk. They sure were sweet. There’s a
few sand fleas + mosquitoes but the fore sure has helped ward them off. We ate the catfish with our
friends along with fresh hand made tortillas, salsa, shredded cabbage. Afterwards we ate sandia
(watermelon) + homemade coconut flavored ice on cones. In about 30 minutes I’ll retire for the evening.
Quite early by my most recent standards. We’ll awake at 5AM + try to make it to Palenque by mid-day
down the world’s ugliest road. Wee have to pass through an army checkpoint (+ and we’ll probably get
searched for drugs, guns, + Guatemalan refugees) + then an immigration checkpoint for our passports +
tourist cards. All persons coming from the interior + going to Yaxchilan must register. We had to
register at Yaxchilan also. So good night + we are off in the morning.

26 marzo 91 martes – 5:35AM

Guten Tag! It’s 5:35AM, we awoke at 5AM to the sound of a bus horn + roosters across the river on the
Guatemalan side + my alarm clock. Mark’s makin’ coffee. The water’s just boiled over a little bit. He
makes coffee+ I prepare dinner, he does the dishes 0% of the time. Well, at least I do 100% of the
driving which is very exhausting in the wild country. Well, it’s “cafe” time + we’ll move out.

4:00PM

We’re in Palenque at the Mayabel trailer Park. mark’s trying to bird watch. I’ve been busy, completely
washing the truck, inside the storage boxes, inside the motor compartment. I made it back from Frontera
Corazol in 4 hours + 40 minutes. It must be some kind of record over the incredibly difficult road, or at
least for a gringo driver.At the cross roads of MEX 199 + the road to Yaxchilan there was an army
checkpoint. The man with the red flag was so shocked by the sight of my truck he just stared + before
he knew it we were past + around the turn. He didn’t have time to aim his rifle if he had too. On arrival I
was exhausted but a huevos rancheros, refried black beans, tortillas, yogurt + banana, + a “Coca” fixed
me straight. Last time we were here the pool was dry. It’s filled with spring water so no chlorine so its a
murky green with a yellow glow. It’s quite clean but looks menacing. We’re about to head into town for
provisions. We stopped here to shower + fill the water tanks. Tomorrow we head towards Chetumal then
into Belize. It’s so strange driving through the Chiapas area populated by indians. Their eyes pop out
and jaws drop whenever I drive by. So we just smile + wave. To date we’re getting 3.346 miles per liter
in Mexico. IN MPG that’s 13 miles per gallon!

8:30PM

Gheez am I thirsty. Back at the Mayabel trailer Park here in Palenque, land of the all night singing
insects. I am at the small palapa restaurant sipping’ an apple soda. It’s almost 85F, very humid + a slight
breeze. The nite in town was probably typical of every nite in downtown Palenque. mark + I went to the
local market (which was difficult to find due to road construction) = bought eggs, tomatoes, pan dulce,
habanero chiles (1st of the trip), plantain, garlic + lime plus some crackers + cookies. mark is the King
of Snacks! Afterwards we went to the restaurant Maya. I had 2 local specialties, Tamalitos Chipaqeuños
( a corn tamale with barbecued pork + green olives) + Tostadas Mayas (filled with cabbage, chicken,
carrots, avocados, onions, + cheese). It was absolute marvelous along with the 4 margaritas it all came
to about $15 with a tip. One of the best meals I have had in Mexico + believe me I have had a hundred
good ones. Afterwards we sat in the zocalo (town square) + watched the night life develop. Your typical
indian children hocking handicrafts + young kids bummin’ money for sweets. I bought one kid a bag of
peanuts. Mark treated + we went for ice cream. I had a rum flavor wit raisins + bits of fruit- simply
marvelous. We’ve work to do but it’ll wait til morning. Really all we need is to fill up the H20 tanks 20
minutes + gas about 10 minutes. So 30 minutes of work but all we have is a direction east towards
Chetumal. A few ruins to visit + 3 campsites to choose from. Oh yeah, I saw two large parrots + a
brilliant shark skin green hummingbird today at the Mayabel trailer Park.

I can’t say enough about the truck’s performance. She’s loaded down + still performing excellent. If I
didn’t mention it, two fog light brackets cracked so I am down to 10 headlights. I’ll change a few things
for the next trip but all in all the design is very functional as is. I think we’ll be in Belize in 3 days. I’d
like to spend a full day in Chetumal + for Belize I’m not sure what I think of it. Mark + I both agree the
trip has been 20 days but feels like 20 weeks. The photos from this trip should be much better than last
time here. I hope I can capture some of the reality + precious moments on film. I’ve shot 8
rolls so far, + Mark 18 rolls. I’ve spent $15 a day including gas, guides (books), tolls, food, gifts +
camping fees. My original estimate was $20 a day so I’m ahead of the game. OK time to sleep, hasta
mañana iguana.

27 marzo 91 miercoles

I awoke at 6:00AM, mark at about 5:45AM. He is bird watching’. It’s time to shave. clean the
windshield, gas up, drink coffee + boogie!

8:30PM

We’ve just been attacked. Our trash bucket was invaded by big red ants. A trail 1 foot wide + 100 feet
long. I took 1/2 our supply of stove fuel + ignited the army of ants. I must have killed 10,000. At both
ends where the line continues there’s thousands more. We’ll probably move + sleep on the back of the
truck. A warm welcome to the Yucatan Peninsula.Today went well, we left Palenque at 9:00AM after
coffee + vising Mark’s friend in town. We fueled up at the crossroads of 106 + 199 + can
make it to Chetumal tomorrow without refueling. At that intersection we picked up a couple from
Amsterdam, Holland and gave them a ride for 10,000 pesos or about 3 gallons of gas! The drive was so
strange, mostly straight road + little hills. A great change from the past 3 weeks. It’s our 3rd week by the
way + it feels like eternity. I adjusted the shifter for the automatic transmission tonight. That’s when I
discovered the army of ants. Four soldier ants went at my ankles + feet! We’re at the Chicana ruins for
the night. After checking out the ruins for 1 hour, I returned to the truck where a bee dive bombed my
big toe on my right foot. He escaped + my right foot hurt like hell. I grabbed my 1st Aid Kit + used my
venom extractor. In seconds the poison was out + there’s absolutely no ill effects from the sting.
Mark found a fruit that fell from a chicle tree. They slash the bark to make chewing gum here. The fruit
is wonderful, somewhat like cherimoya. mark climbed the tree but all the fruit was hard. The unripe
fruit oozes a white gum that’s like strong glue. I found one ripe one + we used it in dinner. Tonight’s
menu consisted of tuna patties, vegetable casserole (chayote, onions, potatoes, + habanero chiles, + Blue
Corn pudding with the fruit of the chicle tree + lots of brand. Some Mexican framers stopped
by, They had a female iguana filled with eggs. It was colorful + large, about 4 feet long. It’s belly full of
eggs made it look look like a crocodile. They gave us some Oaxacan cheese (which I put on the fish
cakes), I gave him a fish in return. The stayed an hour then took off. And I’m off – good night

28 marzo 91 jueves 3:00PM

I’m sitting’ here on the edge of a windy + murky blue bay in Calderitas just 8 kilometers north of
Chetumal, Quinatana Roo, listenin’ to an FM radio station. The first FM channel since we left the USA.
I picked up a Belizian station on AM but I am goin’ to find out from where this station is transmitting
before switchin’. I took a 2 hour nap in my hammoc this sunny + very breezy afternoon. Before we went
into town for forest honey + white gas. The people look very different here. I talked to 2 Belizian
women at the market who were shopping’. It freaked them out when I spoke Spanish.
We’re on a 1/2 kilometer long peninsula that shoots out from the coast into the bay. There’s about 15
families scattered about, a palapa style restaurant + lots of litter. Mexicans love to litter. You name it, it’s
somewhere on the ground here. Tomorrow we’re off to Belize.
We are in Belize

29 marzo 91 viernes – 6:20PM

We be in Hopkins, Belize – about 16 miles south of the Mexican border. A strange day indeed! Mark’s
struggling, trying to put the dishes away. We’re north of a village about 2 miles up a sand road. We’re
parked 40 feet from the water”s edge on a coocnut + palmetto lined crescent curved beach. There’s quite
a bit of trash here from all over the world. Belize quite litter free in general. But how did we get here…
It started yesterday afternoon. I washed my clothes + chilled out, talked to two Mexican kids + drank
beer. When the sun went down we drove back into Chetumal. A car mowed down one f the cement
telephone poles so after a few side streets we were in town. We went to Sergio’s, suito Italian joint, for
about 7 bucks each we had 2 beers, 2 pasta dishes + split a small pizza. The good homemade bread +
some sweet butter. We sat, made our plans for Belize then walked around town. Chetumal is bustlin’
with a thousand little shops all selling’ a combination of 100 items. Bras, electronics, other plastic junk
all the same in each shop but each displayed + arranged differently. We went back , I slept in my
hammock, Mark slept in the truck. It was very windy but warm. Just right for a night of sleeping.\We
awaoke at 5:30AM, cleaned up + headed for the border at 7AM We fueled up, diddled around at the
Mexican Immigration check point + hit Belize at 7:55AM. They opened at 8:00Am, a young Belizian
woman did our entry + was puzzled why we were only staying 2 weeks. We went to customs to register
my truck, they did a 2 minute inspection + that was it.

We had to walk to a small insurance company for liability insurance. We had to exchange dollars with
the black market guys + did it right in front of the border officers I changed US$100 + 50,000 Mexican
pesos. I got 235 Belize dollars. the 1st 2 hours of driving south there were no signs anywhere. After 3
signs at the border, 1 for cigs, 1 for a welcome to Belize (it was extremely battered), + 1 for an ant-drug
campaign, there were no signs in the towns. Oh, there was a rusty sign 10 miles in that pointed to either
Corazol or Orangewalk. All the metal signs are stolen for roof patches + the wooden ones for firewood.
This country seems the exact opposite of Mexico. In the north it’s mostly Mexican + the quality of life
seems better. As we progressed south the towns became dumpier + run down Past Belize City the roads
are unpaved + horrendous. We took the “New Belize Highway”, a single lane dirt road bypassing the
capitol Belmopan. Of course I must mention the tiny trailer park + tourist info center where the lady
(missionary) told us about it (the new highway). It cut through mostly pine forest + citrus groves 2/3 the
way there was a river where we jumped into to cool down. We picked up 5 passengers today.
The 1st Spanish speaking gentleman! We charged him 1 dollar Belize for a 10 mile rise into
Orangewalk. The 3 kids going to Dangriga for free, They helped us at the New Belizian Highway had
lots of twists + tricky intersections to it. It was a nasty road but had at least 10 signs giving directions. It
seemed so old. As we dropped the 3 kids off to get on the Southern Highway (another butt bustin’ road)
we picked up a 7 year old kid and his bike + took him to the next town. All his friends cheered when
they saw him arrive in the back of the truck. As we came into this town, the road that parallels the sea,
had a 400 person, 2 column parade. It was the re-enactment of the march Jesus took to the crucifiction
on Good Friday. Today is that day. We asked some white Italian guy for a camp zone but his friend
knew of some lodges. We needed to chill out here after such a day.

As I remember the days events I’ll write them, so there not in chronological order. At about mile marker
30 or 31 on the Western Highway out of Belize City, we found the entrance to the New Belize Highway,
an unofficial shortcut to the south. We stopped in a palapa/bar/restaurant + had 2 beers (Belican) for
$4BLZ. We chatted with 5 or so friendly locals + then went on our way.
Other facts: auto insurance- liability was $25US a week with a discount for monthly. Gas is
$4.65BLZ/gallon or about $2.35US/gallon.
Tomorrow we’ll stop in the village here to learn more then head south to Placentia, a small village about
50 miles south. This country is small but densely vegetated, the people friendly + the roads terrible. So
I’m tired + tensed from it all. Dinner tonight was migas, spinach + rice casserole + fried potatoes with
onions. I’ll sip some coconut juice + go to bed.

30 marzo 91 sabado ~ 6:20AM

We awoke at 5:30AM, it was light out but the sun didn’t come over the horizon til 6:00AM. The nice
breeze we had yesterday disappeared after dusk. So in came the insect world, no-see-ums + mosquitoes
especially. Mark was awake til 2AM. I slept through it all! Mark will try and put his mosquito net up
before dark next time. But now after our morning coffee the onslaught has returned. So we’re off to
Placentia with a quick stop in Hopkins to shock the locals.

1:30PM

A strange day indeed. This mornin’ we enjoyed our coffee, put a spare 5 gallon of gas in the tank, a little
methyl alcohol with it to absorb the H2O + we’re ff. 1/4 mile back down the trail, the right front tire
pounding hard. The top bolt on the right front shock had siasappeared. Not only that, 1 of 3 bolts
holding the spare on top of the roll bar sheared + 4 bolts holdin’ on the front drive shaft were loose.
After 2 hours all were repaired + we blew off Hopkins. We arrived in Placentia an hour later. I disliked
Placentia from the start. There was a soccer playoff goin’ on . Everyone seems chilled drinkin’ beer,
barbecuein’, radio blastin’ reggae, + a DJ spinning’ Jamaican rap. This is not the tranquility I desire. So
we went to lunch, all they had was canned ham, eggs, + johnny cakes + beer (Belikan). Not much for
US$6. Paper thin ham, 2 perfectly scrambled eggs, + johnny “wouldn’t be proud” cakes. We hung 1
hour + split north to find a campin’ zone. We stopped at a dive shop. Mark mad an appointment to go all
day tomorrow so I’ll work on my tan. But no place to camp. Then off to a place 1 mile further north to
Point Bay. It had expensive cottages but no z.p.a. The owner was gone so we used their hose + got 15
gallons of H2O for our holdin’ tank. 1/2 mile north ofRus Point was an airstrip. We went east to the
beach then a 100 yards down the beach to the south next to an old burnt down house. Lots of shade,
cool breeze + coconuts. There was an old wooden ladder that I put a few new nails in. I went up one
tree + scored 15 green, sweet water coconuts. So we’ve plenty of beach side beverages! I caught an
iguana by his tail going into her burrow. I let him go for we would have gotten his tail + nothing else.
Another meal got away. Well the owner of the property just showed up. We told him we were just
swimmin’ for the day + we’d leave before sundown. He didn’t mind but we couldn’t camp. So we’ll chill
out til about 5PM. So I’ll catch some rays and off we’ll go!

31 marzo 91 domingo – Easter Sunday

We’re in B.J.s restaurant 1/2 mile north of Palencia. I tried the Kingfisher further south but they were
closed. A lot has happened, from the worst to the best. After we left our day camp, we moved across to
the lagoon. There was an extension of an old airstrip that way. They had dredged the canal to form a
straight peninsula into the lagoon. It wasn’t visible from the road so it seemed a logical campground.
The airstrip was built on a ridge of old seashells. Where they had dredged a boat canal the sand was
piled 4 feet above the water line outward to form this peninsula. I walked it + it was solid. So I started
to back onto the sandy point + 12 feet in the left rear wheel sank under 12 inches of the the solid white
sand. The sand hid 4 feet of black rotten sludge. I put it in 1st gear + made it to about 6 feet from solid
ground.The left rear wheel sank + the rear axle dug in 6 inches + the truck sank to a hault. So we dug
out in front of the tires + cleared an area for the axle to clear. We put small wooden logs in front of the
tires. I couldn’t drive the 12 inches needed to obtain traction out of it. It was a terrible sight. The
mosquitoes + no-see-ums came at us like a blitzkrieg. Millions of insects gorged on our skin, feasting
on our blood. Mark went to find someone to pull me out. We needed a little tug to obtain
freedom.

So the sun was setting’, armies of bugs attackin’ + I am stuck in 2 feet of black goo. It was dismal, but
we dug in the muck. It was hot + humid + the insects fely like fiberglass against my skin.In 15 minutes
Mark returned with Tom + his Jeep. He was a retired police officer from Connecticut. With my tow
strap I was out a in a 1/2 second. We chatted with Tom and he offered us to camp on his property. Our
luck had changed. We crossed back to the other side of the peninsula, tore off our clothes + ran into the
sea to wash off the insects + sludge. The sun down, moon full, we screamed in ectasy as warm salt
water eased the pain. We then went to the bar at Kitty’s Dive Shop + ate Honduran tortilla chips +
Belikan Beer. They did have satellite TV + we watched an hour of CNN Headline News. It was strange

the commercials drove me nuts. We met 2 guys from Asheville , North Carolina + Lynchburg,
Tennesee.
It was their last night of 10 and they were getting plastered. My breakfast of eggs, toast, bacon, coffee+
1 grapefruit juice has arrived so I’ll stop for now. Well, for US$5, not great but since everything is
imported, I’ll survive.We we get inland I will cook more. Tonight I’ll maybe make some rice and tuna
patties, Fresh vegetables are definitely invisible in this country. Well, I am off to Kitty’s Dive shop, to
laze in the sun, read and generally do nothin’.

4:15PM

Another eventful day in Belize. After returning to Kitty’s Dive shop I had 2 flat tires. Both left side tires
had punctures. I jacked up the truck, drained the air, put tire sealer + plugs to fill the holes in the tires.
No my right front tire is loosin’ air slowly. So I will use my last can of sealer on it before the drive
tomorrow + hope that solves it. The small electrical air pump I bought is worth its weight in gold. I am
certainly going to buy an extra tire so I will have two spares next journey. So after 4 hours of working’
in the sun, I drank 4 coconuts, then decided to snorkel to relieve the stress of the day. Well as soon as i
hit the water something stung me across my lower stomach. I had an instant blister about 1/2 inch wide
and 6 inches long. Well that got me out of the water. So I decided to work on my tan. After about 30
minutes clouds appeared + I gave up for the day. So its been Spanish lessons for the only success of the
day. Mark should be back shortly. I can’t wait to go inland. I prefer the forests, mountains, and beautiful
refreshing rivers.

1 abril 91 lunes – sundown

Oh brother, things finally more my style. We’re about 20 miles inland on the east side of the Maya
mountains. Tonight the campground is a parking lot of the ranger headquarters. Its the Cocomb Basin
Jaguar Preserve. The 1st of its kind in the world. We’re 10 kilometers west of the Southern Highway. At
the entrance there’s Mopein Mayan village, population 300. The highest concentration of jaguars in the
world surround our camp tonight. They say you could walk by or under in a tree during the day + never
know it. The sometimes eat the local dogs. I hope they haven’t developed a taste for human flesh. I’ll
still sleep well. It’s been raining’ this evenin’, well, sort off. The sky is white, solid clouds but just
drizzlin’ the slightest drops. At mid-day we walked 2 miles to a small waterfall- ice-cold pool. It was a
great place to shower. There’s nothin’ like standing’ naked in the middle of the jungle with a head full of
lather + birds singing’, frogs croakin’, insects buzzin’, etc. Mark + I usually split up and walk the trail
1/2 minute to 1 minute apart. We each set our own pace, make less noise + enjoy nature on a more
personal basis. When your 2,000 miles from home alone in a dense, humid, hot tropical rain forest, your
senses come alive.

Watching out for poisonous snakes and dodging horseflies are the 2 major concerns. Tomorrow I am
going to take a long walk from 7AM to 1PM way deep in the jungle, alone of course. The ride here was
the usually hell experience on Belizian roads. We awoke late about 8AM and had coffee with Tom and
his girl. They were fabulous hosts. Coffee, fresh fruit, and bread for breakfast plus intelligent
conversation made for a good start today. And of course last night we walked into Placentia to the
Kingfisher Restaurant. We had the special stew, beans, rice, chicken, potato salad + seaweed milkshake
for about US$7 each. My funky breakfast almost cost as much. After dinner we settled in for a quiet
seaside snooze but at 4AM a quick 2 minute rain awoke us. We out up the tarp as a second wave of rain
fell. As soon as the tarp was up, the rain stopped. So the truck is back in shape. The 2 tires I plugged are
holding air but the right front tire has a slow leak. I need to pull it ogff if the leak persists. I hate to have
to use my spare. Next time 2 spares for such a rugged journey.

There were a few tourists from the States here today. About 10 all together- typical inexperienced
gringo travelers. Their driver of their bus, Isaac from Sittee River, was an interesting man. He works in
construction, owns a bar, and some land plus a bus service. He invited us to camp at his place and check
out his bar- the “Cool Spot”. At the small store before entering the preserve we bought some Chinese
ant- mosquito incense, Zebra Brand to be exact.It’s working pretty good so far. I have already added
citronella oil to the kerosene. Citronella is pleasant compared to the government issued repellent I
usually apply. Now it’s time to rest, listen to the concert of insects here in the jungle.

2 abril 91 martes – 8:45AM

Well my big adventure to Victoria’s Peak has been postponed.
About 1 kilometer down the trail it turned into a footpath with 3 feet tall grass. Absolute tick, chigger,
and snake heaven. I did not have my boots nor my machete and it was rainy, Maybe next time, I was
prepared for a hike of 6 hours not a 3 day safari. I took the Wari Loop trail back and saw a crested guan,
many small colorful birds in blue, yellow, and red. No sign of jaguars but there were a million spots
where they could have ambushed me in the extremely thick jungle. A few bird of paradise flowers
dotted the trail and the Stan Creek River seemed to hold an abundance of wildlife. The rain comes and
goes but always a drizzle. I’m going to pull the slow leaking tire off in a bit. Mark and I are having a
caffeine festival with Chiapas coffee. Maybe do a little laundry and study Spanish. And did I mention
last night’s menu? Onion, garlic, habanero chile, tomato stew with egg dumplings and coconut blue corn
pudding- made with fresh coconut.

1:30PM

Last night about 15 Montezuma Oropendelunas roosted about 200 feet east of our camp. They made the
most synthesized bird call I’ve ever heard. I recorded a bit and this afternoon and night I will try and get
more terrific jungle sounds. Another relaxing evening, no squadrons of mosquitoes (yet), mellow insect
calls. We ate lunch today so no dinner. I made some fry bread smothered with Mexican honey and
coffee. There’s a few more campers here tonight and as usually noisier than us. I think I will set up my
hammock and read til I sleep or am attacked by the blitzkrieg of blood thirsty bandits. Tomorrow we’re
going to check out the capitol, Belmopan, buy gas (US$2.35/gallon) and groceries and eventually settle
in San Ignacio.

3 abril 91 miercoles – 7AM

I awoke at 5:30AM to listen and watch the extremely misty jungle come to life. Not that the night is
dead here. About 100 Oropendulas were next to our camp in the taller trees. As the flock flew over it
was a thunderous sound. Mark went off for an hour walk and I cleaned up camp, checked the pressure
in the tires (I am still weary about the plugs I put in) and I went down to the Stan Creek River for my
morning bath. Thank heavens the water was about 15F warmer than the waterfall. It is a perfect
morning. The sun has appeared and is burning away the mist from the last 2 days of the thick clouda
and rain. Well we’re off to the capitol Belmopan to buy supplies, check the museum and find a post
office. Ciao!

We be in San Ignacio at the Cosmos Trailer Park and its run by 2 Austinites. One I’ve met before at
Liberty Lunch. it’s a 2 acre site with facilities, showers, toilets, community kitchen and a 1/4 mile trail
down to the river with a primitive tree house and vines to swing off into the cooling river below. And
did I need it.The Hummingbird Highway, Bloody Hell Highway in my book. The trip took 4 hours from
Cocksomb to Belmopan. It would have been 30 minutes less but for the 1st time in 12 years my truck
engine quit and wouldn’t start. Well, its had problem but never quit. The road was so incredibly nasty it
snapped the 12 volt line going to my distributor. Just plain snapped it off. So after a 30 minute solder
job and please not the distributor is a the center rear of the engine. So I had to stand directly over the
motor to fix it. Yes, I was sweating.

Finally into Belmopan vicinity we filled one tank with premium Esso gas at BLZ$4.05/gallon. We
bought 10 gallons, a real treat for the truck used to 81 octane loaded with lead and water (Mexican
gasoline). The capitol was so small and tranquil. It has a nice design but the government buildings were
just too funky. When we arrived at the post office I couldn’t believe my eyes. Just a cinderblock
building. Post cards to the USA were about US5 cents and Europe US 20 cents, quite reasonable. Then
we stopped for a beer and the vegetable market. I don’t know how this country survives, a pretty
desolate market. Next on to the grocery store Brodies. A small supermarket filled with imported
American and European canned and dry goods.
You wouldn’t believe the prices. White gas US$8.50/gallon. One pound of cheese for US$5.00, etc. So
we bought local oil, canned milk, cookies,etc. After we checked out another little market which had
better bananas. We stopped at Gasteferia Park- I relaxed and ate sandwich and Mark took photos of
trees. A young girl, Marie, came out with her frisbee. She had a good solid throw. I showed her the
backhand toss and we played frisbee for a 1/2 hour. We chatted with an American volunteer working on
the park’s headquarter. So we cruised to San Ignacio on the Western Highway which seemed to be paved
with gold- nice and smooth. On the way up on the Hell Highway, they were doing a lot of construction
work and we saw a truck that went off the road into a big tree. The road turned at the crest of a hill and
the driver didn’t. Adios for now.

4 abril 91 – jueves

Yeah mon! Cool vibes. Just finished an hour’s worth of tinkering with the K-10. I have 50 more ideas to
improve things for the next trip. I’m writing by the light of my 2nd new Shanghai miniature kerosene
lantern. It’s red and super cheap but works excellent. 2 lanterns improve things dramatically and will
lessen the need for flashlights and their costly batteries.

So let’s see how they day went…
We slept excellent last night. Cool breeze and no bugs. Unreal. We awoke late, about 7:30AM. I spent 3
hours tightening up the front of the truck, especially the bumper, which has been rattling for weeks. We
went for a tube ride down the lazy river out back. 2 hours of sun, lots of beautiful birds- kingfishers,
egrets, parrots, and blue herons to name a few. 1/4 of sunscreen is covering my body. No burns but the
old Polish nose is a slight pink! we then went into town and what a funky place indeed. i walked in a
few places and stopped to enjoy some old but cold ice cream ( a scoop of rum-raisin and pistachio-
almond, my favorites) and looked for a kerosene lantern. I saw one in Belmopan. I liked made in West
Germany. On my tenth store I found this little US$6.50 gem. I also bought a map of Belize listing all the
gas stations, tourist services and shows the “new” Belize Highway a.k.a dirt road through swamp. It was
BLZ$1.75 and I remember the helpful missionary lady, so Christian indeed, was selling them for
BLZ$6.00. The maps are obviously free sponsored by all the organizations and businesses listed but
everyone charges for them. They’re without a printed price so anything goes for the lil’ cheap pieces of
paper. San Ignacio’s prices in the stores seemed about 20% cheaper here. There were 1 or 2 stores in
Belmopan and 20 in a 4 block area of downtown so the competition (San Ignacio) improved shopping.
NOTE: I couldn’t read the last 2 sentences of this page and my handwriting from 26 years ago is lost to
the ages.

Well I missed writing about the 5th so here goes: Awoke early as usual. Diddled and daddled, shaved,
enjoyed some coffee and went into town. Picked up some tomato paste, milk, more ginger wine, cookies
and a sop at the post office. Went to Xunatunich ruins west of San Ignacio about 5 miles. We had to
cross a river on a hand cranked ferry. It was a slow 120 foot wide river. the ferry is free Monday-Friday,
$1.00 on the weekend and closed noon to 1PM for lunch. The ruins OK, the highest man made structure
in Belize. BLZ$3 each to enter. Talked to a few retired American tourists and gave a local cop a ride
down to the river. He wore regular clothes, no badge and had a .38 caliber revolver with the wooden
handle showing from his pocket. We then came back into town and headed through Cristo Rey and San
Antonio on our way here to Pine Ridge. It was a rough road but when we entered the park the roads
smoothed. We chatted to the Mayan ranger at the gate and using Emery King’s Belize Guide arrived at
the 1,000 foot waterfall at about 3PM. The ranger taught me the meaning of “On”. In means “avocado”
in Mayan. The road to the falls fun, this is a reserve with lots of trails and they are passable with 4
wheel drive and they are used as firebreaks. At the falls was an old quiet wise fellow named Filiberto
Morales and his cheerful dog Gillian. We looked at the falls from a lookout at the top. The steep valley
below the falls is in is impossible to descend. Filiberto showed us another beautiful view and pointed
out the cities we could see, Belmopan the capitol was visible. He showed us a few of the cabins used by
biologists. We said our goodbyes and proceeded through a short cut called the “Little
Vaquero” bypass, a little rough but fun. The beautiful soft pines, ferns, and palmettos and red clay mix
for prehistoric setting.

We arrived at the Rio On pools a 1/2 hour later. It is a nice large stream flowing through black granite
and quite slippery. We walked down and ran into about 10 people from British Columbia. A few of the
girls were skinny dipping and put on their clothes when we arrived. It was good they did, the cold
Canadian winters had rippled them with with cellulite. After a 1/2 hour of cooling off in the water and
pulling tiny leeches from our skin, we came to Augustine, now called David D’Silva, a small Mayan
village and lumber camp. One minute later 5 British recruits showed up, 3 guys and 2 gals in a rented
Toyota 4 wheeler. The signed up for a 2 week adventure/training course. They’re here a few days then
going south to look for and survey new caves. Nice folks. We traded ginger wine, Miller Genuine Draft
beer, cigs, and stories for 3 hours. They arrived right before sundown and had a hard time setting up
camp. They’re about 150 feet in front of us under a lumber storage shed. So they struggle with their red
flimsy”heavy duty” English jungle hammocks which I helped them set up and they ahd a rough night’s
sleep. Most of them going to the cab and bed of their truck. And now for today’s news. I awoke 1st after
a damp cold night and fired up the stove for coffee for 7. Mark and I slept well in spite of that. Well
hold on, I am going to take a quick survey of the area…

7 abril 91 domingo

And now it is Sunday. Let’s finish yesterday. After coffee we waited on the 5 Brits to go caving or
actually in proper term “spelunking”. They left for about 3 hours, struggled with setting up a radio to
make contact with the local British headquarters. That’s so if one gets hurt, bit by a snake, etc. they can
get evacuated by helicopter. So while they played their roles we set up a nice horse shoe court with sand
pits and all for our “Battle of the Atlantic Horse Shoe Championship” later that evening. So we
eventually went to the cave. The 1st two (caves) did not go in too deep ans there was a huge cave spider
that looked and was probably deadly. When you shined the flashlight on them, their eyes glistened like
diamonds. Simon, their leader, and I went in a few tight spaces but Mark (one of the Brits) and “Killer”
from Scotland, were deathly afraid of snakes and stayed near the entrance. Mark (Tejano) kind of did
his own thing. We searched for new passages and openings but to no avail. We finally drove to the end
of the road and went to the largest (cave), the Rio Frio cave system. It was huge, like a small Astrodome
with a small river, great formations and open at both ends. The ceiling was 200 feet high and the cave
500 feet in length and 300 feet wide. There were no passages or tunnels just little opening to closet
sized caves that went nowhere. After 1 hour we went out to look at the forest outside the cave. It was a
bit more tropical. There were no pines like in our campground. I cut some vines and drank the water to
drip out. I showed the Brits the technique which vines were good. We all shared in the refreshing but
bitter fluid. they had no jungle training, nor have I but reading my survival books have given me a slight
but an important advantage. Most, or at least 3 of the 5 Brits, are office workers and only Mark (a knife
maniac) and “killer” (the wimp from Scotland) infantrymen. “Killer” is quite comical, thick glasses,
pale white skin and a funny walk. Always given grief but the other’s especially the two girls. So after
about 2 hours of this we returned to camp.

We all prepared our own meals. The “Gringos”, as I call ourselves, made beans and rice, ham
sandwiches loaded with hot habanero chiles. the “Brits” – Chinese food from a can. They’re rice came
out like porridge and all were a bit down about meal. I gave them beans and rice, some liked it, other
were afraid of the spiciness. But before the meal, we had a best 2 out of 3 horseshoe game or as I called
it, “The Battle of the Atlantic”. Without going into details we swept the series in two games- 21 to 10
and 21 to 12. Mark (UK) and Simon in the 1st round and Mark (UK) and “Killer” in the 2nd round.
They really improved as we went on. Mark (UK) even had 2 ringer in one turn but mark (Gringo)
knocked one off. Today is should be more competitive. After the championship we ate our meals
together on the table here. The used the fire, all three of their stoves were malfunctioning. After I made
coconut blue corn pudding for 7 and we were stuffed. We chatted an hour and quickly retired. So far
today it was coffee for all and early evening a family from Wisconsin pulled in. They have been here 6
weeks and may move here. They are on the other side of the bunk house and are pleasant. Now the Brits
are doing whatever- smoking cigs, dreaming of a cozy hotel and a pint of bitter. Mark’s making a
walking stick with a machete to cave with. So I’m going to clean my spark plugs and chill out and
maybe even look for more auto parts from the nearby jungle.

2:30PM

Spent the day changing spark plugs, washing clothes, and washing the truck. 3 of the 5 Brits & Mark
went off to the Guatemala Caves. Killer and Mark (UK), who I now call “Sniper” because he finally
beat me at horseshoes, and myself, are hanging around chatting and playing horseshoes. It’s a lazy day
but I did accomplish a few things. Killer is here trying to sharpen his pocketknife with my file. Let’s see
in two days (Killer) has lost his cap, sunglasses, and combat knife. He is not “on” as his mates would
say. I had 3 Mayan village kids stop by. I gave one a pen and pad of paper, the oldest helped me wash
my truck- he earned BLZ$2.50. They stayed an hour using my truck as a “jungle gym”.Now they are
back… I chased them off with a water bottle. This time with an older lad about 7 years old. They tried
playing horseshoes but lasted 2 minutes. Now they are on my truck again trying to getto get away with
little things. I will sign off now.

8 abril lunes

It’s about 8:30PM. We all had coffee together this morning. I am real low on fresh Chiapas cowboy
coffee so we mixed cowboy-style coffee with instant coffee, and a touch of cinnamon stick. It’s another
tranquil beautiful sunny day. Around 10 or 11AM, when the heat of the day begins, Mark and I are
going to check out another cave. This well may beat the mid-day heat. Yesterday Mark and the Brits
went to a cave a ranger told them of and found broken Mayan pottery that trench looters had dug up. It
was in a large system and they were gone for 6 or 7 hours. I’m sure I forgot to tell, last night’s menu-
Curry Vegetable Stew with Cornmeal Dumplings, leftover beans and white bread. It was a quite
evening, a fire, little brandy and instant coffee. now Mark is whittling his walking stick and I am
sunbathing after recovering from a cold shower. I went and saw a tapir travel by this morning. Judging
by the size of it, the tapir, national mammal of Belize, is quite impressive in real life.

30 marzo 91 sabado ~ 6:20AM

We awoke at 5:30AM, it was light out but the sun didn’t come over the horizon til 6:00AM. The nice
breeze we had yesterday disappeared after dusk. So in came the insect world, no-see-ums +
mosquitoes especially. Mark was awake til 2AM. I slept through it all! Mark will try and put his
mosquito net up before dark next time. But now after our morning coffee the onslaught has returned. So
we’re off to Placentia with a quick stop in Hopkins to shock the locals.

1:30PM

split north to find a campin’ zone. We stopped at a dive shop. Mark mad an appointment to go all day
tomorrow so I’ll work on my tan. But no place to camp. Then off to a place 1 mile further north to Point
Bay. It had expensive cottages but no z.p.a. The owner was gone so we used their hose + got 15 gallons
of H2O for our holdin’ tank. 1/2 mile north of us Point was an airstrip. We went east to the beach then a
100 yards down the beach to the south next to an old burnt down house. Lots of shade, cool breeze +
coconuts. There was an old wooden ladder that I put a few new nails in. I went up one tree + scored 15
green, sweet water coconuts. So we’ve plenty of beach side beverages! I caught an iguana by his tail
going into her burrow. I let him go for we would have gotten his tail + nothing else. Another meal got
away. Well the owner of the property just showed up. We told him we were just swimmin’ for the day +
we’d leave before sundown. He didn’t mind but we couldn’t camp. So we’ll chill out til about 5PM. So
I’ll catch some rays and off we’ll go!

31 marzo 91 domingo – Easter Sunday

ran into the sea to wash off the insects + sludge. The sun down, moon full, we screamed in ectasy as
warm salt water eased the pain. We then went to the bar at Kitty’s Dive Shop + ate Honduran tortilla
chips + Belikan Beer. They did have satellite TV + we watched an hour of CNN Headline News. It was
strange + the commercials drove me nuts. We met 2 guys from Asheville , North Carolina + Lynchburg,
Tennesee.It was there last night of 10 and they were getting plastered. My breakfast of eggs, toast,
bacon, coffee+ 1 grapegruit juice has arrived so I’ll stop for now.

Well, for US$5, not great but since everything is imported, I’ll survive.We we get inland I will cook
more. Tonight I’ll maybe make some rice and tuna patties, Fresh vegetables are definitely invisible in
this country. Well, I am off to Kitty’s Dive shop, to laze in the sun, read and generally do nothin’.

4:15PM

Another eventful day in Belize. After returning to Kitty’s Dive shop I had 2 flat tires. Both left side tires
had punctures. I jacked up the truck, drained the air, put tire sealer + plugs to fill the holes in the tires.
No my right front tire is loosin’ air slowly. So I will use my last can of sealer on it before the drive
tomorrow + hope that solves it. The small electrical air pump I brought is worth its weight in gold. I am
certainly going to buy an extra tire so I will have two spares next journey. So after 4 hours of working’
in the sun, I drank 4 coconuts, then decided to snorkel to relieve the stress of the day. Well as soon as i
hit the water something stung me across my lower stomach. I had an instant blister about 1/2 inch wide
and 6 inches long. Well that got me out of the water. So I decided to work on my tan. After about 30
minutes clouds appeared + I gave up for the day. So its been Spanish lessons for the only success of the
day. Mark should be back shortly. I can’t wait to go inland. I prefer the forests, mountains, and beautiful
refreshing rivers.

1 abril 91 lunes – sundown

Oh brother, things finally more my style. We’re about 20 miles inland on the east side of the Maya
mountains. Tonight the campground is a parking lot of the ranger headquarters. Its the Cocomb Basin
Jaguar Preserve. The 1st of its kind in the world. This was a great place to shower in the hot humid rain
forest of Belize. We’re 10 kilometers west of the Southern Highway. At the entrance there’s Mopein
Mayan village, population 300. The highest concentration of jaguars in the world surround our camp
tonight. They say you could walk by or under in a tree during the day + never know it. The sometimes
eat the local dogs. I hope they haven’t developed a taste for human flesh. I’ll still sleep well. It’s been
raining’ this evenin’, well, sort off. The sky is white, solid clouds but just drizzlin’ the slightest drops. At
mid-day we walked 2 miles to a small waterfall- ice-cold pool. It was a great place to shower. There’s
nothin’ like standing’ naked in the middle of the jungle with a head full of lather + birds singing’, frogs
croakin’, insects buzzin’, etc. Mark + I usually split up and walk the trail 1/2 minute to 1 minute apart.
We each set our own pace, make less noise + enjoy nature on a more personal basis. When your 2,000
miles from home alone in a dense, humid, hot tropical rain forest, your senses come alive.
Watching out for poisonous snakes and dodging horseflies are the 2 major concerns. Tomorrow I am
going to take a long walk from 7AM to 1PM way deep in the jungle, alone of course. The ride here was
the usually hell experience on Belizian roads. We awoke late about 8AM and had coffee with Tom and
his girl. They were fabulous hosts. Coffee, fresh fruit, and bread for breakfast plus intelligent
conversation made for a good start today. And of course last night we walked into Placentia to the
Kingfisher Restaurant. We had the special stew, beans, rice, chicken, potato salad + seaweed milkshake
for about US$7 each. My funky breakfast almost cost as much. After dinner we settled in for a quiet
seaside snooze but at 4AM a quick 2 minute rain awoke us. We out up the tarp as a second wave of rain
fell. As soon as the tarp was up, the rain stopped.So the truck is back in shape. The 2 tires I plugged are
holding air but the right front tire has a slow leak. I need to pull it off if the leak persists. I hate to have
to use my spare. Next time 2 spares for such a rugged journey.

There were a few tourists from the States here today. About 10 all together- typical inexperienced
gringo travelers. Their driver of their bus, Isaac from Sittee River, was an interesting man. He works in
construction, owns a bar, and some land plus a bus service. He invited us to camp at his place and check
out his bar- the “Cool Spot”. At the small store before entering the preserve we bought some Chinese
ant- mosquito incense, Zebrabrand to be exact.It’s working pretty good so far. I have already added
citronella oil to the kerosene. Citronella is pleasant compared to the government issued repellent I
usually apply. Now it’s time to rest, listen to the concert of insects here in the jungle.

2 abril 991 martes 8:45AM

I’m going to pull the slow leaking tire off in a bit. Mark and I are having a caffeine festival with Chiapas
coffee. Maybe do a little laundry and study Spanish. And did I mention last night’s menu? Onion, garlic,
habanero chile, tomato stew with egg dumplings and coconut blue corn pudding- made with fresh
coconut.

1:30PM

Just finished lunch, beans and rice but Mark missed the hot food. I gave a plate to a taxi driver here for
the afternoon. About 10 minutes some people saw a jaguar about a 1/2 mile down the trail. I’d love to
get a photo of one and live!I spent the afternoon filling the water tanks and doing laundry and reading
my truck manuals. My front ball joints are loose. So after some work this summer, it’s going to be some
new front end parts, rebuild the driveshaft, transmission, transfer case and another spare tire. It should
set me back US$1000. Last night about 15 Montezuma Oropendelunas roosted about 200 feet east of
our camp. They made the most synthesized bird call I’ve ever heard. I recorded a bit and this afternoon
and night I will try and get more terrific jungle sounds.
Another relaxing evening, no squadrons of mosquitoes (yet), mellow insect calls. We ate lunch today so
no dinner. I made some fry bread smothered with Mexican honey and coffee. There’s a few more
campers here tonight and as usually noisier than us. I think I will set up my hammock and read til I
sleep or am attacked by the blitzkrieg of blood thirsty bandits. Tomorrow we’re going to check out the
capitol, Belmopan, buy gas (US$2.35/gallon) and groceries and eventually settle in San Ignacio.

3 abril 91 miercoles – 7AM

I awoke at 5:30AM to listen and watch the extremely misty jungle come to life. Not that the night is
dead here. About 100 Oropendulas were next to our camp in the taller trees. As the flock flew over it
was a thunderous sound. Mark went off for an hour walk and I cleaned up camp, checked the pressure
in the tires (I am still weary about the plugs I put in) and I went down to the Stan Creek River for my
morning bath. Thank heavens the water was about 15F warmer than the waterfall. It is a perfect
morning. The sun has appeared and is burning away the mist from the last 2 days of the thick clouds and
rain. Well we’re off to the capitol Belmopan to buy supplies, check the museum and find a post office.
Ciao!

6:00PM

We be in San Ignacio at the Cosmos Trailer Park and ots run by 2 Austinites. One I’ve met before at
Liberty Lunch. it’s a 2 acre site with facilities, showers, toilets, community kitchen and a 1/4 mile trail
down to the river with a primitive tree house and vines to swing off into the cooling river below. And
did I need it. The Hummingbird Highway, Bloody Hell Highway in my book. The trip took 4 hours
from Cocksomb to Belmopan. It would have been 30 minutes less but for the 1st time in 12 years my
truck engine quit and wouldn’t start. Well, its had problem but never quit. The road was so incredibly
nasty it snapped the 12 volt line going to my distributor. Just plain snapped it off. So after a 30 minute
solder job and please not the distributor is a the center rear of the engine. So I had to stand directly over
the motor to fix it. Yes, I was sweating.

Finally into Belmopan vicinity we filled one tank with premium Esso gas at BLZ$4.05/gallon. We
bought 10 gallons, a real treat for the truck used to 81 octane loaded with lead and water (Mexican
gasoline). The capitol was so small and tranquil. It has a nice design but the government buildings were
just too funky. When we arrived at the post office I couldn’t believe my eyes. Just a cinderblock
building. Post cards to the USA were about US 5 cents and Europe US 20 cents, quite reasonable. Then
we stopped for a beer and the vegetable market. I don’t know how this country survives, a pretty
desolate market. Next on to the grocery store Brodies. A small supermarket filled with imported
American and European canned and dry goods.You wouldn’t believe the prices. White gas
US$8.50/gallon. One pound of cheese for US$5.00, etc. So we bought local oil, canned milk,
cookies,etc. After we checked out another little market which had better bananas. We stopped at
Gasteferia Park- I relaxed and ate sandwich and Mark took photos of trees. A young girl, marie, came
out with her frisbee. She had a good solid throw. I showed her the backhand toss and we played frisbee
for a 1/2 hour. We chatted with an American volunteer working on the park’s headquarter.
So we cruised to San Ignacio on the Western Highway which seemed to be paved with gold- nice and
smooth. On the way up on the Hell Highway, they were doing a lot of construction work and we saw a
truck that went off the road into a big tree. The road turned at the crest of a hill and the driver didn’t.
Adios for now.

4 abril 991 – jueves

At the falls was an old quiet wise fellow named Filiberto Morales and his cheerful dog Gillian. We
looked at the falls from a lookout at the top. The steep valley below the falls is in is impossible to
descend. Filiberto showed us another beautiful view and pointed out the cities we could see, Belmopan
the capitol was visible. He showed us a few of the cabins used by biologists. We said our goodbyes
and proceeded through a short cut called the “Little Vaquero” bypass, a little rough but fun. The
beautiful soft pines, ferns, and palmettos and red clay mix for prehistoric setting. We arrived at the Rio
On pools a 1/2 hour later. It is a nice large stream flowing through black granite and quite slippery. We
walked down and ran into about 10 people from British Columbia. A few of the girls were skinny
dipping and put on their clothes when we arrived. It was good they did, the cold Canadian winters had
rippled them with with cellulite. After a 1/2 hour of cooling off in the water and pulling tiny
leeches from our skin, we came to Augustine, now called David D’Silva, a small Mayan village and
lumber camp. One minute later 5 British recruits showed up, 3 guys and 2 gals in a rented Toyota 4
wheeler. The signed up for a 2 week adventure/training course. They’re here a few days then going
south to look for and survey new caves. Nice folks. We traded ginger wine, Miller Genuine Draft beer,
cigs, and stories for 3 hours. They arrived right before sundown and had a hard time setting up camp.
They’re about 150 feet in front of us under a lumber storage shed. So they struggle with their red
flimsy”heavy duty” English jungle hammock which I helped them set up and they had a rough night’s
sleep. Most of them going to the cab and bed of their truck. And now for today’s news.
I awoke 1st after a damp cold night and fired up the stove for coffee for 7. Mark and I slept well in spite
of that. Well hold on, I am going to take a quick survey of the area…

7 abril 91 domingo

And now it is Sunday. Let’s finish yesterday. After coffee we waited on the 5 Brits to go caving or
actually in proper term “spelunking”. They left for about 3 hours, struggled with setting up a radio to
make contact with the local British headquarters. That’s so if one gets hurt, bit by a snake, etc. they can
get evacuated by helicopter. So while they played their roles we set up a nice horse shoe court with sand
pits and all for our “Battle of the Atlantic Horse Shoe Championship” later that evening. So we
eventually went to the cave. The 1st two (caves) did not go in too deep ans there was a huge cave spider
that looked and was probably deadly. When you shined the flashlight on them, their eyes glistened like
diamonds. Simon, their leader, and I went in a few tight spaces but Mark (one of the Brits) and “Killer”
from Scotland, were deathly afraid of snakes and stayed near the entrance. Mark (Tejano) kind of
did his own thing. We searched for new passages and openings but to no avail. We finally drove to the
end of the road and went to the largest (cave), the Rio Frio cave system. It was huge, like a small
Astrodome with a small river, great formations and open at both ends. The ceiling was 200 feet high and
the cave 500 feet in length and 300 feet wide. There were no passages or tunnels just little opening to
closet sized caves that went nowhere. After 1 hour we went out to look at the forest outside the cave. It
was a bit more tropical. There were no pines like in our campground. I cut some vines and drank the
water to drip out. I showed the Brits the technique which vines were good. We all shared in the
refreshing but bitter fluid. they had no jungle training, nor have I but reading my survival books have
given me a slight but an important advantage. Most, or at least 3 of the 5 Brits, are office workers and
only Mark (a knife maniac) and “killer” (the wimp from Scotland) infantrymen. “Killer” is quite
comical, thick glasses, pale white skin and a funny walk. Always given grief but the other’s especially
the two girls. So after about 2 hours of this we returned to camp.

We all prepared our own meals. The “Gringos”, as I call ourselves, made beans and rice, ham
sandwiches loaded with hot habanero chiles. the “Brits” – Chinese food from a can. They’re rice came
out like porridge and all were a bit down about meal. I gave them beans and rice, some liked it, other
were afraid of the spiciness. But before the meal, we had a best 2 out of 3 horseshoe game or as I
called it, “The Battle of the Atlantic”. Without going into details we swept the series in two games- 21
to 10 and 21 to 12. Mark (UK) and Simon in the 1st round and Mark (UK) and “Killer” in the 2nd
round. They really improved as we went on. Mark (UK) even had 2 ringer in one turn but mark
(Gringo) knocked one off. Today is should be more competitive. After the championship we ate our
meals together on the table here. The used the fire, all three of their stoves were malfunctioning. After I
made coconut blue corn pudding for 7 and we were stuffed. We chatted an hour and quickly retired.
So far today it was coffee for all and early evening a family from Wisconsin pulled in. They have been
here 6 weeks and may move here. They are on the other side of the bunk house and are pleasant. Now
the Brits are doing whatever- smoking cigs, dreaming of a cozy hotel and a pint of bitter. Mark’s making
a walking stick with a machete to cave with. So I’m going to clean my spark plugs and chill out and
maybe even look for more auto parts from the nearby jungle.

2:30PM

Spent the day changing spark plugs, washing clothes, and washing the truck. 3 of the 5 Brits & Mark
went off to the Guatemala Caves. Killer and Mark (UK), who I now call “Sniper” because he
finally beat me at horseshoes, and myself, are hanging around chatting and playing horseshoes. It’s a
lazy day but I did accomplish a few things. Killer is here trying to sharpen his pocketknife with my file.
Let’s see in two days (Killer) has lost his cap, sunglasses, and combat knife. He is not “on” as his mates
would say. I had 3 Mayan village kids stop by. I gave one a pen and pad of paper, the oldest helped me
wash my truck- he earned BLZ$2.50. They stayed an hour using my truck as a “jungle gym”.Now they
are back… I chased them off with a water bottle. This time with an older lad about 7 years old. They
tried playing horseshoes but lasted 2 minutes. Now they are on my truck again trying to getto get away
with little things. I will sign off now.

8 abril lunes

Tuesday 9 abril 91 – 10:30AM

Well only 20 days left. At the new hope trading Company now. Mark buying a chair on the VISA card.
We left More Pine Ridge and came here into San Ignacio to make phone calls, post cards, fruit, etc. The
Chinese restaurant was closed at 10:30AM so we’re off to the zoo early today.
Yesterday afternoon, Simon and Killer went to pick up Matt and supplies in Belize City, so Mark went
of to B.W. and those of us who remained slept, played horseshoes, and just before sundown we got a
case of Belikan beer. Mark Brit) and i played another round of horseshoes and he was wobbling. it was
a second challenge after I lost my crown yesterday in the “Battle of Belize”. At sundown he passed out
in his hammock. Simon and company returned, we all ate and after drank beer Miller Genuine Daft
(MGD), Belize Rum and Cokes.
This morning the Brits made us c,e, and t and gave us a complete set of topo map of Belize. We cleaned
up our camp, exchanged addresses, and said our farewells. So after a rough ride down from the hills, it’s
a hot and sunny day on the fringe of civilization on the edge of the planet in “chilled out” funky Belize.

10 abril – Wednesday

It’s 11:30AM and we are in Belmopan at the new Capitol Chinese restaurant and bar. Mark and I opened
savings accounts at the Belize bank here. We chose it because it had the lowest minimum deposit fr
obtaining interest. A good rate too- 5% on the total each 6 months. I am ordering a conch curry and
Belikan beer. A few minutes ago I bought 2 more bottles of my favorite ginger wine. I hope it will make
it back to Texas and not be enjoyed til then.
After leaving San Ignacio yesterday we stopped at Guanacaste Park to go for a cooling swim. After the
coolness pf Mountain Pine Ridge the jungle sun seemed overbearing. The off to the zoo for a 1/2 hour
BLZ$10 each guide. It’s a small zoo with crested guans, 2 pumas, ocelot, 2 jaguars, owls, etc. and a
tapir named April. the national mascot and mammal. Afterwards we hung out in the parking lot in the
cool shade of a palapa and researched the trip to the Yucatan and other side trips. We talked to the boss
of the zoo and got his permission to camp across from the new zoo for the night. Lots of small biting
speckled grey and white flies but long pants and sleeved shirt solved this. At dusk I prepared tuna
cheese melts on whole wheat buns and rice with habanero, onions, garlic, cabbage, tomato sauce. After
wards mark tried to make some hot instant cocoa atole. he heated the H20 first and it came out
gross and extremely lumpy. We sieved and salvaged what liquids we could through our teeth and spit
out the nasty lumps of mushy corn lumps. It was a good night’s sleep.

We just finished our curry dishes and I think I’ll have another beer, we have an hour to kill before going
to the National Archives Museum. We had to make an appointment 2 days in advance. It is open MWF
1:30PM-4:00PM. Afterwards we’re off to Crooked Tree Bird Sanctuary to check it out, camp and
boogie the next day back to Mexico. The old K-10 was fun this morning, a fuel transfer tube had a
pinched o-ring and a few drops of fuel needed stopping. After 30 minutes we were ready to rill. The 25
“litros” of white gas spirits the Brits gave us is being used to dilute the gasoline at about 10% to
save on fuel. It should clean out the system well. So it’s chill out time again in Belize. I looking forward
to returning to Mexico. We are not going to get tourist cards at the Mexican consulate since we have
only 18 days left after tomorrow – ciao.

11 abril 91 jueves – 6:15AM

It’s a beautiful 6:15AM here at Crooked Tree Bird Sanctuary. mark’s out bird watching until 7AM and
I’m writing, sipping java, and getting ready for our border crossing into Mexico today. Let’s see what
happened yesterday…
We went into Belmopan, ate lunch, went to the store and bank. Then to a “vault” at the Archaeological
Department. It was quite fascinating- jade masks, flint scepters, pottery, skulls, weapons, and jewelry.
The guide was quite knowledgeable and it was a learning experience of a lifetime. Afterwards we spent
an hour in their library and I enjoyed myself beyond belief reading Mayan legends, customs, etc.
We then boogied to Belize City. i drove 55MPH, quite different than the usually cruise and enjoy at
40MPH. We looped through Belize City and it was just as we pictured it, I hope not to return. 30
minutes before sunset we arrived here in peaceful C.T.B.S. We’ve camped outside the little headquarters
here next to the lagoon. To get here it was a raised road through the lagoon about 2.5 miles long. The
folks friendly here and after chatting with a few, they pointed us to a resort. Mark wanted to have a few
last Belikan beers with our last bit of Belize dollars so off we went. Walking along side the water
through fences, brush and livestock we arrived at what we thought was the “resort”. I found out this
morning it wasn’t.

It was a bar for the locals, just a roofed cement floored beer joint with no walls to let more mosquitoes
in. When we arrived there were 2 other people there. After we had 2 beers each about 25 kids of all ages
from 5 to 25 were there. At 7:30PM the excitement began. A color TV and a VCR were put on the
counter. After some adjusting by the owner, appearing on the screen was the letters; JIVE TURKEY. It
was a gangster movie based in Ohio (my birthplace) in 1936. A black mafia leader ran a numbers racket
and a whore house opium den. The local Italian mafia got the big order from Chicago to take, “Parker”,
the black mafia leader out. it was an election year so even the corrupt police and politicians needed to
do something. They joined in with the Italian Mafia to make Parker a scapegoat. in the first 3 minutes,
“Serene”, the transvestite and number 1 assassin working for Parker, slashed an Italian
hitman/bodyguard’s throat in an Italian restaurant.The gash was 6 inches long and 1/2 deep with a pint
of blood oozing everywhere. I mentioned this because there was a table full of six year with eyes glued
to the screen next to us. Then more violence, nudity, gambling, drugs, prostitution, with a poor script,
bad acting, and real bad stereotyping of all peoples throw in. Half way through we split.
All last night different domestic animals strolled through our camp. Along the lagoon seemed to be their
main trail. So we finally slept and I sit here about to begin preparing for my favorite place- Mexico.
Belize has been the exact opposite of Mexico in every shape, way, and form.

Back in Old Mexico

We’re back in Chetumal in the middle of the state of Quintana Roo about 120 feet from the Caribbean
Sea. Last time we were here they let you pull your vehicle right up on the beach but not now. There’s a
parking lot with a lagoon, a few small palm & trees at the trailer park. There are about 5tents down at
the beach and a few palapas you can rent also. It’s not too crowded, just right, enough people to
converse wit and make it a bit more interesting. It’s a bit windy and it might rain tonight. I set up the
frame work which we use to put the tarp on. It takes 3 minutes but when it’s raining it seems like 10
minutes So as the first drops of rain start to fall the tarp will be tossed over head. It would flop too much
in the wind while we sleep so it’ll stay down for now.
Dinner was good tonight- scrambled eggs with tomatoes, garlic, onions, poblano rajas, and little beer
thrown in, bolillos (small French breads) and my famous chayote casserole. I picked up a six-pack of
Tecate to relieve the tension of the day. As you know it started out at 5;30AM and we finally stopped
moving at 5:30PM.

So here’s how the day went. It was smooth up to the northern Belize border. We had to put 2/3 a gallon
of gas in the truck to make it over to a Mexican gas station. Belize gas was outrageous at $2.35/gallon.
Leaving Belize we had our passports stamped for exiting and I had the vehicle entry stamp verified, I
left with my vehicle. At the checkpoint a scraggly man and an even scragglier dog walked around my
truck to sniff for contraband. Nothing here boys!

Into Mexican Immigration was as easy as uno-dos-tres. In 5 minutes we were through and customs just
waved us by. Our visas for mexico are only for 30 days, a tradition at the Chetumal crossing, not the
usual 180 days elsewhere.\We stopped in the markets in northeast Chetumal for food and provisions.
We spent a big US$16 on food and US$3 on white gas for the stove This should last a week easily.
About 20 minutes north of Chetumal we stopped in Bacalona at the Cenote Azul, a pool fed by
underwater rivers This “little” pool was 600 feet wide and 300 feet deep. The water was clam, warm,
and an eerie shade of blue. The sides slanted not in towards the center, but back under the shore. It was
if it was a giant underground lake and a portion of the ceiling collapsed. It was kind of spooky
swimming in what seemed like a bottomless pit. After an hour we left and cruised here. It was a windy
day but the smooth and flat Quintana Roo highways provided a good change of pace. So my hammock
going up and I am going in it!

12 abril 91 Friday -7:00PM

The sun is setting in Chemuyil, Quintana Roo after a good home cooked meal. Heuevos Rancheros with
salsa verde and garlic lime poblano soup and fresh succulent papaya. Unbelievable morning today I
awoke at 5AM, the sky was light. I started working on the truck, oil change, fuel filter, etc. Did all kinds
of things that seemed like 5 hours of work but when I looked at my watch it was 7:15AM and I had
been running around without the help of a good cup of coffee. Well we are almost out of it and I refuse
to buy instant (coffee).

I planned the last 2.5 weeks of the trip (gain and again). I am a bit anxious to get home, well almost.
Today I sat in the shade of coconut-less palm grove and read a book, snorkeled looking for edible fish,
and laid in the sun about an hour. My skin is getting tan but needs a few more days for perfection. Mark
is going to let me tale his spear gun out to catch some fish. So today i practiced my underwater stalking
techniques. The sea is a different world and it definitely has my respect. I was startled twice today while
in the ocean. 1st time a wave tossed a prickly piece of vegetation on my back. I instant thought jellyfish
but thank someone’s god it wasn’t. Strange things stinging you out there 200 feet from shore in
somebody else’s neighborhood gets the pulse up.

While coming into shore in about 4 feet of water in a bed of sea gray, I turned my head to the left for a
second. Then as I looked forward I swam into a school of about 50 sea bass, each about 2 feet long.
They split into 2 groups and went around me. To have little fish head coming right at you sure was a
shock. I turned and gave pursuit but after 10 yards they lost me. So the sun is down and I’ll soon retire at
a late 7:30PM. Oh, I forgot, I went to the restaurant here called “El Marco Polo”. It’s kinds expensive
but I went to the kitchen and asked to buy a dozen tortillas. The kid gave them to me and refused
payment. He also had another 300 or 400 more on the counter and would spare them. The man came
along to collect the ZPU fee at 4:00PM. So we paid the 16,000 pesos (about US$5) and he left. We
forgot to mention we came late yesterday and we camped last night. Oh well, a peso saved is a peso
earned. Buenas noches.

14 abril 91 domingo – 6:30PM

OK, OK, I’ll at least mention this about yesterday. For the small fee of US$1, I will tell you the tale of
the high points and the low points of the entire journey. Case closed on yesterday, that is unless you’d
like to pay a buck.

Back to today. We’re in Piste, 2 kilometers west of Chitza Nitza archaeological zone. We are at the
Piramide Hotel and Trailer Park, right next to the bus station. That could be a curse many don’t use
mufflers. Tonight’s dinner chayote and eggs, tortillas , and garlic lime habanero tortilla soup
and flan made with Rompope’ (some funky liquor) We left the Tulum area at about 10:30AM.
outside the ruins the the radiator developed a small crack. After all the hard four wheeling it was to be
expected. The hole is finally large enough to spew out. Driving the whole time it was never visible but
after a few hundred miles the coolant level would be down 2 or 3 inches. The crack is small and at the
top, so this explains why it never became to low. A jar of sealant in the form of a powder initially
seemed to fix it.Th 2nd bolt holding on the spare cracked but if the roads are smooth it should make it.
All in all, the truck’s been through hell and still performing. No more major mountain regions, thick
jungles, scorching desert, deep thick sandy beaches, rocky pot holed trails, just smooth sailing.
After the ruins of Tulum we headed to the ruins of Coba’. it was about 1 hour drive, no incidents. We
spent 2.5 hours checking out the ruins which were really spread out. There were two nice large
pyramids and three neat small ones. Most of the stellae were eroded by rain and weather. I took a few
trails into the jungle, Coba’ has over 5,000 buildings, but only a handful uncovered and retrieved for the
grip of the jungle. It was a scorching and humid day. After climbing the pyramids (one was 12 stories
tall!) and swatting horseflies, I guzzled 2 sodas and a beer after returning ti the front gate. We chilled
out a bit and headed to Cenote Dzitnup. Dzitnup means pig n Mayan. As you know a cenote is a large
blue pool where an underground river has come to the surface. The cenote was in a cave. In the center
of the cave ceiling was a 10 foot diameter hole where light came in. it cost US$0.65 to enter and was
well worth it. It was all Mayans hanging out, mostly farmers. The water was cool in temperature and
eerie but beautiful translucent blue-white. One side was shallow and gradually became deeper probably
bottomless. On the far side were roots of trees reaching down to the life giving water. A Mayan youth
showed me a ledge above 25 feet about the water’s surface from which to dive from. We climbed the
roots up the steep vertical cliffs to the top of the cave. We took two dives each and it was a real rush.
Mark refused to try it. The cenote was a perfect place to cool out after the hot day in the jungle.
You know know “dzitnip” means pig in “Mayan. The Cenote Dzitnip got its name when a man’s pig fell
through the roof of the cave. When he went into the hole to find it (pig), he obviously discovered the
cave. Another fun word in Mayan in “xi-cachya-teyun-sil” which means good-bye. The Mopan Mayan
word for good-bye is “inca”, much easier to say. So we left the wonderful cenote and tried to avoid the
pesky vendors and hordes of children, and arrived here at 5:00PM. There’s a shower, toilet, and
swimming pool available to us. So it’s shower time but 1st… well, you’ll have to pay a dollar to find out.

16 abril 91 martes – 7:30PM

Que fantastico! Merida is where we are at but 1st yesterday’s adventure.
We left the Piramide trailer Park at 7:30Am for C.I. We were the first one’s there at 8:00AM gate’s
opening. It’s a truly modernized set up and well kept site. Probably the most incredible I’ve seen yet.
After 3.5 hours we headed back to Piste’ to swim in the “nicest pool in the Yucatan” at Piramide Trailer
Par, or that’s at least what the sign claimed. After a few laps of cool refreshing H2O, we fueled up and
headed to Merida. The old truck sure doesn’t run well on 81 octane NOVA regular. At higher altitudes
there’s no problem but here at sea level it’s sounds like hell (motor). I am going to start using some
“MAGNA SIN” gasoline. It’s unleaded and supposed to have a higher octane. We’ll have to pay that
little extra bit of pesos as to destroy the engine.

That day as we drove to Merida, was a scorcher, so we headed north to the Gulf of Mexico. Just 25
miles north of Merida. We were heading to a town called Chubarna to look for a campsite. Instead we
stopped at a roadside seafood joint for a beer. The beer was expensive by Mexican standards but they
served “botañas” to us. Botañas are small foods served with the beers. They brought out tons of botañas.
Tuna, conch, refried beans, shrimp with rice, tostadas, etc. I almost felt guilty at the large amount we
consumed. We bought 5 beers which came to US$6.50 and we were served twenty dollars worth of
food, not bad. So a little tipsy, happy, and content we headed to Chubana. We didn’t find the ultimate
place so around dusk we returned to Merida to look for the Rainbow Trailer Park. On the way back we
past the same restaurant. Out front were the friendly waiter, bartender, and cook, so we gave them all a
lift. We arrived here at 7:00PM, a little tired and ready for sleep. It was a whopping US$2 per person
per night but a real nice place run by a sweet friendly older Mayan woman.

And now today our our old buddy George and his wife Lavern whom we ran into twice here on the
peninsula were here too. We chatted a bit last night and saw them in town George is a wild elderly man
from near St. Louis, Missouri trying to live out his fantasy of scuba diving. His wife sure is cooperative
and patient. Each day we trade stories and information. They’re nice and I know we’ll see them
somewhere again. They always tell us to keep out of trouble and say we’re following them around. So
we took the bus into town. A whopping 30 cnts for the 5 mile trip. The bus was a bit crowded but a fun
ride on your typical Mexican bus. A little altar, flashing lights, music blasting, women with ducks in
their purses, the whole shebang. Mark and I went together, got a couple of juices, then went exploring
We went and bought hammocks. Mark two, a one person and a double and I bought a black super
deluxe that can hold 3 people. It was about US$25 and would cost over US$100 in the States. We
walked a bit looking for a restaurant. Mark being himself disappeared and I didn’t think twice about
waiting or looking for him. I went to a few places my guide books recommended and I was dying to see
if they’d been closed up. So i headed to Los Alemedlos restaurant and ordered the combination Yucatan
special. It had four main meat dishes and two side dishes, 2 beers, tortillas and usually eating vegetarian
in the States I almost exploded. It was fabulous and for US$10 including tip, a real bargain. Slowly I
walked back to the center shopping district, bought a book on the Mayan language (in Spanish of
course) and sat at an outdoor juice shop. After an hour. one orange juice and one papaya juice with
milk, I headed to the central market. There’s a small gecko lizard hanging out the pavilion I am at. It
occasionally chirps and I chirp back.

Today I bought a quart of honey (US$1,65), carton of cigs (US$4.35), a bottle of Mayan liqueur
(US$4.35), 7 mangoes (US$0.60), 5 post cards (US$1.15), a small basket (US$0.50), a Yucatan
cookbook (US$1.50), a Mayan language book (US$3.15), a hammock (US%25.00). I felt like the king
of shopping sprees and I have 1/3 of my list complete. We’ve one day more day paid for here
(campground) but I hope to talk Mark into staying 2 or 3 more. He got a little tipsy today on his own
and is presently sacked out in his hammock. I also exchanged a couple of Spanish pesetas for pesos
today. European currencies have been put to use. Good night.

17 abril 91- Wednesday

It’s our third night here in Merida. This morning we slept in late until about 6:15AM. Mark left at Mark
left at 9AM but I stayed back and washed clothes, sunbathed, relaxed, etc. I met Mark downtown at El
Tucho restaurant, a funky night club/restaurant with lots of waiters running around. We ordered the
specialties. It took us 1.5 hours to eat and with a few beers and ice cream we were stuffed. With tip it
was about 90,000 pesos or US$30.00 for two people. Quite expensive for Mexico but well worth it.
mark headed back in town but I needed to hit the post office and take a few “people” photos and shop.
Today I bought a of cane liquor to put in my fuel tanks, 12 post cards, another hammock, a jar of a
habanero salsa, horchata and maybe a jar of chipotle sauce. It was another scorcher, I lasted 2 about
4:30PM. i grabbed an orange juice then jumped on a bus back here. A mice day all in all. now mark,
George, and I are bullshitting in the little gazebo here. I am drinking Rompope & brandy so I’ll call t a
night.

18 abril 91 – jueves 9:45PM

Just finished washing a few clothes by hand as always and about to jump in the shower. I’ve been
spoiled lately. With the heat and humidity in Merida, I jump in (shower) 2 or 3 times a day. the daily trip
to the city covers me with grime. So here is how it passed today. We awoke at 6:00AM. Our old buddy
George and Lavern took off early. We’ll see them again. I talked them into going to Palenque and Agua
Azul. We have to head back that way anyways. George gave us his address and wrote a little poem:
A man in his metallic age- hair of silver, teeth of gold, and ass of lead.

He ‘s a real character. The lord only knows how woolly I will be at 63 years old.
We had real coffee for the 1st time in a week. Afterwards we diddle daddled here then took a 4 or 5 hour
siesta during the heat of the day. The last few days of walking in town and eating Yucatan delicacies
caught up to us. After I checked the truck, the radiator started leaking again. the low octane fuel has
been pinging lately so I put in larger main jets in the carb hoping the richer mixture would help. And of
course the other tailpipe cracked so we’re truly rolling thunder.

And how could I forget before our siesta, Mark and Ad, a Dutch citizen raised in the Antilles and I went
to Dzibichaltin, a set of old and longest inhabited Mayan ruins about 8 kilometers north of here. They
were alright but the cenote was fabulous for a swim And of course, how could I forget the little
wheeling and dealing this afternoon. After siesta the hammock vendor stopped by. After a chat we
thought of exchanging things. One Good will dress,a pair of sunglasses, wrenches and a frisbee for a
hammock. My value was about US$3.00 and I got a US$8.00 hammock that would sell for US$30.00 in
the States. I took a quick siesta in it to break it in. Now I am the owner of 5 hammocks.
Later that afternoon after chasing iguanas around, we were bored and recovered and we knew we
needed something to tire us or we wouldn’t be able to sleep. So we hopped on a bus at 5PM into Merida.
The town was alive and with a different feel than the hustle and the bustle during the mid-day heat.
Mark and I split, I went to buy 30 grams of Chile Habanero seeds for US$6.00. I planted all of them, I
could make US$300.00 profit but alas I ‘ll be on the road this summer. Well who can I get to tend the
crops while I’m gone. Somehow Austin summer and the Yucatan’s weather feel the same. They should
grow like bandits.

21 abril 91 domingo

Wee, we’re real far north now. At Playa Farrollon about 30 miles north of Vera Cruz. I missed two days
so I’ll cover them now!
On Friday the 19th we left Merida after some real coffee around 8:00AM. We headed to the ruins
of Uxmal rocking to the rhythm of Salsa music on the FM radio. All along the gulf coast we’ve picked
u[ FM stations, real nice compared to the radio silence of the central highlands and southern jungles.
Uxmal (oosh-mal) was quite nice. Lots of different carvings and hundreds of lizards, birds, and bats
inhabiting the ruins. It was another scorcher of a day. After 3 hours of playing “Joe Arch” we then
headed south through the State of Yucatan. We crossed into Campeche and Cancun and came across our
favorite mango roadside stands. We bought 75 mangoes, a whole crate, for US$4.60 or about
US$0.06 each. We had a quick feast and headed to Palenque. We had out share of ruins. It was
extremely hot and humid that day. After the long drive we arrived at the Mayil campsite about an hour
after dark. When we arrived Mat from London, who we met in Tulum, was there. After a quick black
beans and rice meal, I fixing the other cracked exhaust pipe with the bean can. We all sat, drank a few
beers and were ready for a well deserved night’s rest.

On Saturday we slept late, to about 6:45AM, had coffee with Mat and headed here. It was a long haul,
about 375 miles. In Mexico that’s a lot because of the “topes” (bumps), obstacles, crazy truck drivers,
etc. I drove the truck hard and today I need to run more on the expensive high octane unleaded tourist
gas. The poor motor was asked to deliver more than it;s share as I pushed it at sea level.You see, the
higher the altitude, the lower the octane that’s needed. I reckon since most Mexicans live at higher
altitudes, it’s no problem. those along the coast are left we sputtering engines. It seems most of the gas
burns as its in the exhaust and tailpipe and sounds like hell.

We went through Vera Cruz area to look for a trailer park in the southern part of the city but it was shut
down. As we continued through downtown the cops had the road closed for some unknown reason so
we had to back track through town. At about 8:00PM we finally arrived here. We scouted around and
chose a spot about a 100 meters from the beach. It’s a bit less windy. As the evening progressed about 9
car loads of Mexican families and couples stopped by. they drank, swam, yelled, blasted radios until
about 4 or 5 AM. i pretty much slept through it.. All the nice cool breeze kept the insects away.
This morning we were visited by a few joggers, a dump truck obtaining sand and 6 burros. We tried to
feed 2 mangoes to the burros but they wanted nothing to do with them. So it’s coffee time and about
8AM. i am going to go for a swim. Today we’re off to Xalapa to go to an archaeological museum. then
camp about 100 miles north of here near Naritila. We’re going to ease home from here at about 200
miles a day. I think we’ll be home about Tuesday or Wednesday.

24 abril 91 Wednesday – 6:30AM
Austin, Texas USA

i awoke at sun up and felt slightly uncomfortable with walls and a roof over and around me. It seemed
the whole world is asleep expect for the birds. I can relate to them more than my society at this
moment. Now I am at the laundry mat and I’m still getting over the amazement of watching hot water
streaming into the machine. the steam that rose seemed like a new demon. When I put the clothes into
the dryer they were to clean to be mine! I miss the old rivers where I labored before. My cup of coffee
from the corner store is more like tea. i could have made a cup at home but I’d probably awoken
someone and my presence can easily disturb them. ill write a bit more on the journey home in a bit.

25 April 91 Thursday – 8:00AM

It’s my 3rd day home and habitually I arose with the sun. I’m 99.9% settled in. yesterday I spent $30 on
tuning the truck, changing the fluids, a new exhaust system and replacing all the products used on the
journey. I had the muffler system installed by good old “Muffin Muffler. It was the first time in 13 years
someone other than myself has worked on the truck!
I have not slept in my bed yet as I am so addicted to my hammock. Mark said he chose his hammock
also. So enough said, I best recap the last leg of the journey to Austin. On Sunday the 21st (April) we
broke camp at 7 or 8 after coffee to head to Xalapa. We had to back track down Highway 180 30 miles
than climb 60 miles inland to the capitol of Vera Cruz, Xalapa, at around 4,000 feet in altitude.We went
to the Museum of Archeology. It was excellent. the artifacts were from the Olmec Civilization. They
lived on the eastern central coast of mexico. The were called the “mother civilization” of Mexico. The
Mayans and Aztecs owe a quite a lot of cultural, political, and religious roots to the Olmecs. Afterwards
we grabbed some baked goods and headed further inland and higher into the mountains. the idea being
not to backtrack to the coast and see something new. Ha! As we climbed the fog became dense. After 20
miles we turned around for the coast. It would have taken 10 hours to go 100 miles in those foggy
mountains.

We headed along the coast that afternoon on a cool and cloudy day. About 5PM we arrived at the
Neptuna Trailer Park in Naritla. there we ran into a Mexican guy who offered us beers. So we ate chips
and salsa which he (The Mexican guy) had brought from Texas and proceeded to slam 2 cases of beer
down. Without going into details, he transformed inta classic nacho, bragging, lying, bullshitting
Mexican drunk. After 2 hours of this we crashed being relieved of that “Bollo”. We didn’t eat diner
either.

On the 23rd we awoke at sunrise and started the long boogie back to Texas. We made a few stops for
odds and ends. i kept a faster than normal pace hoping to cross into Texas right after sundown. Just your
regular Mexican highway cruising but with lost of road improvements over our last trip. So we made
good time and all went well except for driving through the coastal town of Tampico. We just don’t like
the town so i won’t describe what it’s like to go through it.

Friendly American Greeting at the Texas Border Over an hour search and questioning

We arrived at the border in Matamoros/Brownsville at 9:30PM. Of course they tore the truck apart for
an hour. They didn’t find my habanero pepper seeds nor lizard skin, but the last of our mangoes and
limes. A lot of real bozos were working and they had 5 guys going through the truck asking dumb
questions. We then went through to the Texas liquor tax man. Mark paid duty on 3 bottles. i paid one, as
one was mine but for Texas citizens the limit was one. So we were allowed to get an extra one of marks’
in. (Mark had an out-of-state ID). I didn’t bother to mention my bottle of Xtanbentum or ginger wine.
We then cashed in the last of our pesos and went to grab some good old fashioned American
hamburgers and ice cream. After an hour of freaking out on our new world, we headed north. The
highway was greatly improved, 4 lanes and divided.m We hit the inland border check and went through
with no problems. if they hassled me I had my tape recorder ready and a copy of the Supreme Court
ruling on the 4th Amendment to the Constitution saying they couldn’t search my truck without cause at
an inland immigration check if I refused.

After 2 hours we found a trailer park. Pulled in at 1AM, slept 5 hours and pulled out at 6AM. And we
didn’t bother to stop in the office to pay. I’m surprised we got away, the cracked exhaust pipe and
jumbo hole in the muffler sounded like a tank. By 12;45PM we pulled into Austin, Texas. i had hoped to
get my film in for development but alas I missed the deadline by 15 minutes. Not bad considering I
raced 1,000 miles in the last day down hellacious Mexican roads. but today is the day the photos will be
ready and I’m extremely anxious. So that’s it, a lot of details have been left out and maybe forgotten but
here’s some facts for 7 weeks. We each spent around $850.00 for everything. The truck got 11.5 miles
per gallon on a 6,000 mile journey and it costs8 cents a mile for fuel. I’m happy to be back yet very
estranged to having electricity, hot and cold running water, a roof and walls and strangest of all, a stove
I don’t have to pump full of air and light with a match. The end.

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